What's new
British Ordnance Collectors Network

This is a sample guest message. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

2" mortar fuze

N

navyman

Well-Known Member
Hello all,
I'm looking for a drawing or cutaway picture of an HE 2 inch mortar fuze. Can anyone let me have a copy?
I've just received this one but don't know what the internals look like.
Many thanks,
navyman.
 

Attachments

  • 2 in Fuze 1a.jpg
    2 in Fuze 1a.jpg
    57.9 KB · Views: 79
  • 2 in Fuze 2a.jpg
    2 in Fuze 2a.jpg
    60.4 KB · Views: 77
  • 2 in Fuze 3a.jpg
    2 in Fuze 3a.jpg
    57.8 KB · Views: 76
  • 2 in Fuze 4a.jpg
    2 in Fuze 4a.jpg
    59.7 KB · Views: 72
Last edited:
Internal pic

There you go mate. I have some diagrams at home, but I'm at work all night so you'll have to wait.
Cheers,
Rob
 

Attachments

  • C-Mortar2Fuze-L.jpg
    C-Mortar2Fuze-L.jpg
    89.8 KB · Views: 80
Last edited:
Thank you Rob,
That section pic is very handy, I can see how it works. I'll be very grateful for any more diagrams etc so that I can examine it more closely, ie; 'Take it to pieces, photograph, re-assemble, catalogue and display.
Cheers,
Guy.
 
navyman said:
Thank you Rob,
That section pic is very handy, I can see how it works. I'll be very grateful for any more diagrams etc so that I can examine it more closely, ie; 'Take it to pieces, photograph, re-assemble, catalogue and display.
Cheers,
Guy.
Click to expand...

They are very easy fuzes to take apart and put back together. There are no real fiddley bits and things. I'll put some diagrams up on the post when I get in though
 
Hello all,
Many thanks for the picture and drawings. I'll have fun taking this apart.
Cheers,
Guy.
 
Here you are
 

Attachments

  • Fuze, mortar No. 161 Mk3, action.JPG
    Fuze, mortar No. 161 Mk3, action.JPG
    96.8 KB · Views: 68
  • 2 inch HE Mk.1 mortar , WW2, GB, sec-01.JPG
    2 inch HE Mk.1 mortar , WW2, GB, sec-01.JPG
    96.9 KB · Views: 75
Hello all,
Thanks for all the images.
I think I may have committed a collectors crime, ie; I removed the locking grub screw,and safety pin, but however hard I tried to unscrew the base plug I couldn't get it to move. So I drilled two 2.5mm holes in the plug, (which I intended to fill with chemical metal) and made a tool to fit from a piece of spare bronze and a couple of ground down masonry pins. Unfortunately it still wont move and I'm not inclined to apply any more pressure in case of causing more damage. It's now soaking in WD 40.
Can anyone tell me where I'm going wrong here? The fuze is in lovely condition and I don't want to spoil it anymore than I already have. I dont want to section it as I've no idea how much of the original is still there, so cutting would need to be very carefully done to display the mechanism at it's best?
All suggestions greatly appreciated,
Festive best wishes to all,
Guy.
 

Attachments

  • T2.jpg
    T2.jpg
    60.3 KB · Views: 33
  • 2 2.jpg
    2 2.jpg
    90.5 KB · Views: 46
Thanks Rob,
That sounds like good advice. I think I'll abandon this project, fill the two holes, and look for a 2" body and a fuze worth sectioning.
Best wishes,
Guy.
 
I have the exact type of fuze but with the tape, I took the bottom off by applying a little heat (with a hot air gun, not too much) as these fuzes are usually sealed with a red or varnished cement. Made up a tool to remove it as well as opening up the crimped areas but had to be very careful not to slip. In your case should be a doddle with the drilled holes. I removed mine as i wanted to be sure that the fuze was definitely inert. No excuses if i get that knock on the door plus to be able to demonstrate that its dead as a dodo. As for stripping further, the brass cap needs to be removed but i am not going that far as its a perfect example.
 
The reason for a safety pin being fitted to 2"mortar fuzes came about when earlier 151 unpinned fuzes were air dropped, the force of an impact caused some of the fuzes depending on angle etc to activate the detent, so the fuze was in a very dangerous pre firing condition, so when fired from the mortar the det cap holder was in line with striker pin. The recoil on firing the unsafe round resulted with a premature explosion ie in the mortar barrel.
 
navyman said:
Hello all,
Thanks for all the images.
I think I may have committed a collectors crime, ie; I removed the locking grub screw,and safety pin, but however hard I tried to unscrew the base plug I couldn't get it to move. So I drilled two 2.5mm holes in the plug, (which I intended to fill with chemical metal) and made a tool to fit from a piece of spare bronze and a couple of ground down masonry pins. Unfortunately it still wont move and I'm not inclined to apply any more pressure in case of causing more damage. It's now soaking in WD 40.
Can anyone tell me where I'm going wrong here? The fuze is in lovely condition and I don't want to spoil it anymore than I already have. I dont want to section it as I've no idea how much of the original is still there, so cutting would need to be very carefully done to display the mechanism at it's best?
All suggestions greatly appreciated,
Festive best wishes to all,
Guy.
Click to expand...

Hi Guy,

You bought the fuze from me! The base plug is often difficult to take out as there are usually crimps which lock it in; they do vary and are not always easy to see. Picture of a more pronounced one attached.
Regards
Trevor
 

Attachments

  • DSCN7239.jpg
    DSCN7239.jpg
    51.9 KB · Views: 30
Hi all.
I've got a similar fuze and I opened it. I found no movable parts (but the detonator's spring9 and the firing pin hole is closed by a bakelite pin. Also the metal disc closing the bottom (septum) has no openings. It is a dummy fuze? The brass cap has some crashing lines and on metal discs I could see a round mark as if struck by percussor.
Best wishes
FB
 
Hello all,
I must apologise, for some reason I had neglected to reply to this thread ages ago.
Trevor, I now have the fuze installed in a nice original case. Re-reading your last message I have noticed the crimps which you refer to. They are certainly hard to spot! Another lesson learned, many thanks,
Guy.
 
Hi all,

I have a spare 2" mortar and as it is one of a few I have and the markings have nearly disappeared I am thinking of sectionising it.

I would appreciate a few tips on how to remove the crimped cap on the top of the fuse, with out damaging it, so as to remove internals before cutting.

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated,

Cheers,
BOUGAINVILLE
 
Best not to go there!

Unfortunately like most fuzes they are assembled by "staking" some of the components together-the items are first sealed with a thread sealant(that will be the brown/red goo you see) and are then assembled (tightly) and then the fuze is "staked" usually twice or some times with three "dinks" to prevent anything coming undone then the sealant is allowed to harden.

Generally if you pursue your current hope of undoing the fuze you stand every chance of stripping the threads that have been "staked" as your picture clearly shows is the case.
The only way to get over this is to either remove the "staked" in portion thus releasing the thread or to continue attempting to unscrew it which as stated previously may well end up with a stripped thread.
Being "Maizac" metal forget any repairs as this stuff is very difficult to work with at the best of times.
Best of luck!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top