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Are they worth it?
- Thread starter ted99
- Start date
One thing I learned about collecting when I was actively collecting banknotes was never to pass up anything no matter the condition, you never know if you will ever get a "goodun" anytime in the future. But don't spend more than its worth to get one. You can always pass on your old items when you get a good replacement.
Thanks
Thanks for all the replies, I have a lot of pieces that I would consider to be in poor condition such as the No68 grenades but the internal parts are mint and my attempt at sectioning them does show how they work.
I am learning a lot from reading your posts and looking at the collections you guys have.
I have inherited most of my collection and have several containers of pieces to clean and identify.
I have quite a few "spare" primers Ben; if you want make me an offer.
Ted
Any ideas what these are? not cleaned yet, the larger item is zinc and the smaller item brass. I have around 30 of each of them??? picture is not to good.
Thanks for all the replies, I have a lot of pieces that I would consider to be in poor condition such as the No68 grenades but the internal parts are mint and my attempt at sectioning them does show how they work.
I am learning a lot from reading your posts and looking at the collections you guys have.
I have inherited most of my collection and have several containers of pieces to clean and identify.
I have quite a few "spare" primers Ben; if you want make me an offer.
Ted
Any ideas what these are? not cleaned yet, the larger item is zinc and the smaller item brass. I have around 30 of each of them??? picture is not to good.
Chris 42 RQ
Well-Known Member
The smaller item is Brass and looks very much like a Magazine for a No 250 or 251 fuze as fitted to the 40 mm Bofors High Explosive shell-are you certain they are all empty as they are very powerful when filled-even partially!
No idea about the plug type item.
Brass can be very nicely cleaned sympathetically by simply leaving it in household vinegar for many hours, just keep cheking it every few hours to make sure nothing untoward if occuring.
Zinc or Maizac metal is a big problem to clean as it is such rubbish and is often porous due to poor casting/pressure injecting etc.
Good luck with the collection and you have a very nice start with your items-remember primers are usually the "missing part" case collectors are looking for.
No idea about the plug type item.
Brass can be very nicely cleaned sympathetically by simply leaving it in household vinegar for many hours, just keep cheking it every few hours to make sure nothing untoward if occuring.
Zinc or Maizac metal is a big problem to clean as it is such rubbish and is often porous due to poor casting/pressure injecting etc.
Good luck with the collection and you have a very nice start with your items-remember primers are usually the "missing part" case collectors are looking for.
Brown Sauce works quite well too!
Hi Ted,
There are three "challenges" in collecting period!
1) Finding the items
2) Cleaning the items (restoring)
3) Keeping them cleaned.
For item no 1, good hunting - that's what it is all about and you never know just what "pops up" around the corner - but it is becoming less common and harder to find stuff than 30 years ago!
For item 2, really depends on the condition:
> Lightly tarnish - Brasso / case tumbler
> Mildly tarnish - household products as suggested above (vinegar is a mild acid), haven't heard of "Brown Sauce" before, but probably has [FOOD ACID 330] which is "phosphoric acid" (Coke).
> Heavy tarnish - I use the following magic "Enhanced Coke formula":
55% Phosphoric Acid
25% Glacial Acetic Acid
20% Conc. Nitric Acid
The above basically "strips" the oxidation" layer off and leaves an almost brand new brass finish which takes a couple of easy buffs with brasso to polish up.
Application for the "Enhanced Coke" mixture:
*** USE CAUTION AND HAVE THE APPROPRIATE ACID HANDLING PROTECTION***
(>>> i.e. safety glasses and gloves)
> Apply mixture with a paint brush for 5 -10 mins (you see it will fizzes on contact)
> wash off with water and re-apply until the desired level has been achieved (depends how heavily tarnish the item is)
Note: If the item has been recovered from the sea etc, then the zinc component of the brass would have been eroded away and thus a "copper" appear is left (cartridge brass is 30% Zinc / 70% Copper)
For item 3, you need a metalic lacquer such as Wattles "INCRAC" :
Some notes:
> Clean the nice shiny polish finish with metho to remove "fingerprints" (trust me they show up after a couple of years!) :sad:
> Apply the lacquer only when the above ambient temp is above 15 degree C (else the clear lacquer turns white and it's a PAIN in the ASS to have to use paint stripper to remove and start again!!!!!!)
....and most importantly HAVE FUN!!!
Cheers
Drew
BTW - I'll post some pics of items that I have "restored" about thirty years ago (when I didn't have any friends / no life and basically a "collecting" nerd - sad hey!)
There are three "challenges" in collecting period!
1) Finding the items
2) Cleaning the items (restoring)
3) Keeping them cleaned.
For item no 1, good hunting - that's what it is all about and you never know just what "pops up" around the corner - but it is becoming less common and harder to find stuff than 30 years ago!
For item 2, really depends on the condition:
> Lightly tarnish - Brasso / case tumbler
> Mildly tarnish - household products as suggested above (vinegar is a mild acid), haven't heard of "Brown Sauce" before, but probably has [FOOD ACID 330] which is "phosphoric acid" (Coke).
> Heavy tarnish - I use the following magic "Enhanced Coke formula":
55% Phosphoric Acid
25% Glacial Acetic Acid
20% Conc. Nitric Acid
The above basically "strips" the oxidation" layer off and leaves an almost brand new brass finish which takes a couple of easy buffs with brasso to polish up.
Application for the "Enhanced Coke" mixture:
*** USE CAUTION AND HAVE THE APPROPRIATE ACID HANDLING PROTECTION***
(>>> i.e. safety glasses and gloves)
> Apply mixture with a paint brush for 5 -10 mins (you see it will fizzes on contact)
> wash off with water and re-apply until the desired level has been achieved (depends how heavily tarnish the item is)
Note: If the item has been recovered from the sea etc, then the zinc component of the brass would have been eroded away and thus a "copper" appear is left (cartridge brass is 30% Zinc / 70% Copper)
For item 3, you need a metalic lacquer such as Wattles "INCRAC" :
Some notes:
> Clean the nice shiny polish finish with metho to remove "fingerprints" (trust me they show up after a couple of years!) :sad:
> Apply the lacquer only when the above ambient temp is above 15 degree C (else the clear lacquer turns white and it's a PAIN in the ASS to have to use paint stripper to remove and start again!!!!!!)
....and most importantly HAVE FUN!!!
Cheers
Drew
BTW - I'll post some pics of items that I have "restored" about thirty years ago (when I didn't have any friends / no life and basically a "collecting" nerd - sad hey!)
hicky1300
Well-Known Member
Hi Ted
Nice assortment.
Some people collect carrier bags & crisp packets so it really is a matter of personal choice! If you want to collect it & to you it is worth the money then you stick with it
As to cleaning items as you can see there`s plenty of advice. Personally I think that the relevant muck & detrus adds to the authenticity & atmosphere of the item.
It it need to be cleaned in order to try to ID it or show markings then start of with the simple wet cloth & progress from there.Wire & Nylon (toothbrush) brushes work well & you can get packs of small steel, brass & nylon brushes in markets & many DIY stores.
Coka cola works on copper & brass, rust remover (auto parts shop) on steel.
Good luck
Nice assortment.
Some people collect carrier bags & crisp packets so it really is a matter of personal choice! If you want to collect it & to you it is worth the money then you stick with it
As to cleaning items as you can see there`s plenty of advice. Personally I think that the relevant muck & detrus adds to the authenticity & atmosphere of the item.
It it need to be cleaned in order to try to ID it or show markings then start of with the simple wet cloth & progress from there.Wire & Nylon (toothbrush) brushes work well & you can get packs of small steel, brass & nylon brushes in markets & many DIY stores.
Coka cola works on copper & brass, rust remover (auto parts shop) on steel.
Good luck