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Cutting modern plastic frag grenades

GTR003121

Well-Known Member
Hi all, does anyone have any experience with cutting modern plastic type frag grenades?

I have a duplicate German DM51 body that I would like to very cleanly slice 1/3 off of. It's composed of hard plastic embedded with thousands of steel balls and it has a rotating metal base, probably Aluminum. It's cylindrical in shape and is roughly 3.5" in height by 2.2" maximum diameter.

What kind of tools and blades should I use to cut it cleanly/accurately and to prevent any movement of the body?

Do any of you know someone in the states that does cutaways? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Justin
 
I've done sectioning of projectiles, etc. but never done any plastic grenades. The matrix of steel or carbide balls are probably your biggest problem, because they won't want to cut with a saw blade, and an abrasive saw would generate so much heat that it would melt the plastic back from the joint in an ugly way.

The most important step to cutting, is to be able to hold the item firmly during the cutting operation.

I'm thinking you should post some photos of the item you want cut, and first ask the members if anyone already has a sectioned one that you can get some photos of. That way you can get an idea about the exact structure to be cut and the type of interface you will end up with where the cuts are made. If the balls aren't suspended in a plastic matrix, they will spill out unless sealed in place with adhesive, etc.
 
Thanks very much for your input Hazord. I think that's a good idea and I will post some pics later today. I have never seen a sectioned example of this type. I have seen other types from the same manufacturer and the balls seem to be well suspended but I have seen nothing to prove or disprove that this type is the same. Thanks again!
 
I would try one of the diamond tile saws with a water bath.

I have cut plastic with them before with some success. They cut ceramic cleanly.
 
I did this DM58 body a while ago, as I recall I used a small hacksaw to cut through the plastic then a demel to get through the fragmentation balls. Took quite a while to get through those, then back to the hacksaw for the remainder of the plastic. Filed the cut edges smooth and painted it up. Not too bad if I do say so myself.
 

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I did this DM58 body a while ago, as I recall I used a small hacksaw to cut through the plastic then a demel to get through the fragmentation balls. Took quite a while to get through those, then back to the hacksaw for the remainder of the plastic. Filed the cut edges smooth and painted it up. Not too bad if I do say so myself.
I'd say excellent sgtlynn. Well done........Dano
 
I did this DM58 body a while ago, as I recall I used a small hacksaw to cut through the plastic then a demel to get through the fragmentation balls. Took quite a while to get through those, then back to the hacksaw for the remainder of the plastic. Filed the cut edges smooth and painted it up. Not too bad if I do say so myself.

You know, I had no idea the DM58 had the balls in it too. Had I known that I wouldn't have passed on a couple. I have received a PM and a couple emails about this grenade so it looks like I may trade it.
 
Justin, I know I gave you my perspective on this, but I thought I would post some examples. It is very hard to cut them and have a neat surface because the balls either pop out of the matrix or rise above the cut surface unless you have professional equipment, which most do not have access to. The first is the Spanish Alhambra. Very small steel balls and a zillion of them. The second is an Austrian one without steel balls. I threw this in because it puzzles me. Every Austrian grenade I have seen without the balls has had a lemon skin texture surface without the ridges. There are no markings on the grenade or the fuze, but I suspect it is Austrian based on the fuze and body design. The third one is a Bulgarian RGO-78. Much larger balls so a rougher cut surface. Only did half of this one. The last is a Yugoslav BRM-75 and took the easy way out here. Did not cut thru the frag liner yet the size and number of steel balls is clearly visible so it looks neater. Doing a good job on these is a real challenge. Bob
 

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Justin I can see why you've received emails and pms from guys wanting the DM51. Mine is one of my favorites and I've had to turn down a few offers myself. They ARE beauties.
 
Thanks for the pics and info Bob, very helpful. I love the BR M75, haven't seen that type of cutaway, makes me want to buy a spare and do that!

I am very picky about things and knowing that it would be extremely difficult to make it the way I want it, I think it's best to leave it alone!

Hey Jolly, yes the DM51's are cool. I have gotten some interest but the fact that it's missing the fuze body is a problem, so it's still here. I don't know what to do with it. I guess it's going to stay on the trade list.
 
Very fine Cuts.

Have you Informations of the elektronic Fuze from the Spanish Alhambra

Regards Peter
 
Fotomanx,

The Alhambra fuze is a very unique one and one that should not be played with.. Once the safety pin is pulled and the handle released a coiled spring spins up a small armature that charges an on-board capacitor and mechanically draws a small mini-detonator from its safe position into alignment with the explosive train. At the end of the preset delay time, the fuze functions. All of this happens with no external indication of it. The delay time can be set during manufacture to customer desires so there is no standard delay for the fuze.
I've attached a copy of a drawing and parts list for the Alhambra and an xray of a live Alhambra grenade.
The last attachment shows the newest smaller version of the Alhambra. Have not seen this one so I cannot comment on the fuze or other characteristics, but it sounds as though it is of the same design.
 

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