Fun with Yellow - 4.5" & 75mm

[Gspragge]

After getting a new bearing race turn table thing, 6 inches across and rated for 500 pounds,
though to look at it one might not put it to that test~.
I again gave the 4.5 a spin and with fine steel wool dulled it down much more safely.
It is a close match to the ww2 Bofor more than the 18Pr, though that due to age and handling the latter
might have darkened some what. The yellow was Caterpiller yellow. Not bad in a pinch.
The paint adhesion is very poor on the 4.5". Due to a more polished surface and no primer.
Perhaps poor paint adhesion is realistic though from some things I've seen~
I think going at the 4.5" with 600 or coaser paper might have helped and primer likely would for sure.
One thing I notice on a polishd shell body, if primed and then smoothed but litely scored with
sand paper the ridges will give the next coat something of the look of the original machined surface.
The U.S. 75 is more yellow than either, though the lighting likely distorts this some what.
All of this is reversable and as ex lamps it really couldn't get much worse aside from rust pitting for
surface finish. Thoughts and suggestions welcome ~

 

[HAZORD]

Gordon, primer is always a good way to help adhesion, since that is one of its functions. Using a light glass beading will roughen up the surface slightly without removing the machining marks, and wiping down with acetone right before primer will degrease and clean the surfaces for a better adhesion. Rubber gloves to prevent skin oils from contaminating your clean surface. Make sure that temperatures are 70 degrees F. or above will also improve quality. It's a good idea to use the same brand name primer as the body color brand name for best compatibility, although Rustoleum is a very good primer for the price and very available! Follow the drying instructions on the primer before color. Krylon dries fast and Rustoleum usually takes longer. First coat of primer usually takes the longest to dry. If available, I use a shipping plug to suspend the projectile in the air so I can paint the whole thing, including the base, at one time, and I walk around it if I don't have a turntable. Select a good masking tape to cover the rotating band, so that the tape will not wrinkle on the edges allowing the paint to get under the mask.

I'm sure you knew all these things. I thought you were going to use school bus yellow on the 75mm?

 

[Gspragge]

I did use Shool bus yellow on it - one I found at an automitive supplier nothing else
being in hardware stores. I can only hope it is correct to the actual colour. A lot of things are difficult to find even from the big manufacterers up here.
A better image closer to reality.
I may redo the 4.5, it had been polished and nickle plated and it's pretty smooth. This was basically a practice run.

 

[HAZORD]

Gordon, here are some examples of U.S. school bus yellow. Having a primer under the service color, changes the color. Having a background color around the objects also changes what the color looks like when you take the photo.

http://www.bocn.co.uk/vbforum/threa...ombs-and-other-small-bombs?highlight=MARK+VII