stick grenade colour scheme info required

[Andysarmoury]

Hi, Has anybody got a colour scheme for the stick grenade first and second world war, or should i have said what shade of green and can you still get the paint,
thanks in advance
Andy

 

[Endel]

I can share you only the German "Stockmine" if it helps you, but I don`t have any stick samples or color code .:smile:

 

[Andysarmoury]

Thank you Endel for your help but i need to know if i can get the paint.
Andy

 

[paul the grenade]

heres a link to a site that does paint.
I was asking the same questions earlier this week and was sent this site.
http://44militaria.com/equipment_spray_paint.htm
paul.

 

[Andysarmoury]

Thanks Paul,
Andy

 

[18pounder]

grenade colour

i use modelin paint as its about right shade, and dont be too picky because batches of paint varied anyway.

 

[Andysarmoury]

Hi 18pounder, are you talking about humbrol hobby paint what Number would you use for the gray/green as used on the stick grenades
Andy

 

[18pounder]

Paint finishing

Hi Andy,
I use Revells Acrylic paint because the pigments are very good (covers very well) its thinned with water,and I believe you get a better finish than oil based varnish.

Ive used I Revells Field Grey ,and darkened it very slightly.
Not sure which number it is now because ive run out.
Also i dont leave the paint looking new,I usually apply a wash that makes the subject look aged.
After the final coat is properly dry I take a dab of the base colour and darken it by adding a tiny dab of black.
Then I add a redish brown,again a dab,and water the whole lot down to nearly water consistency.
The trick is to get a pigment just right so that it wont cover the base coat but will run into the nooks and crannys,and give the effect of a light coat of general grime.
I often use this on static models to enhance the surface detail.
You just need a large modeling brush and apply all over,wet the whole thing,and let it dry.
You can get the idea of the correct shades if you look on the side of a model kit,as it gives you the paints required.
Its worth noting that i often use cheap artists Acrylics too,and try diffrent effects.
Paint is a personal thing,I wouldnt be too concerned about exactness, some would suggest that a certain shade is the 'correct' shade.
Different factorys,produced slightly diffrent shades and the human element of applying the paint would also affect the final shade.So its open to some 'artistic licence'.
Hope this helps.

18pounder

 

[Andysarmoury]

Thanks 18pounder sounds a good idea, but i would not put water based paint on steel i would go for oil based my self.
Andy

 

[18pounder]

water based paint

Honestly mate,the finish is really tough,and the quality of these paints are very high.
You can still varnish it if you want.
I swear by them
18pounder

 

[Andysarmoury]

Hi 18pounder, i don't doubt it for a min, but on steel you have to use oil based paint to prevent it from rusting if you do it with water base paint and even varnish it it will rust under the varnish.
Andy

 

[18pounder]

Paint finishing

Well after numerous tests and head scratching,your right Andysarmory.

I painted small steel plates with acrylic,and whilst there was no marked corosion diffrence (after 2 weeks) I found the modelling enamels tend to leave a much smoother and 'surface hugging' finish.
Acrylics seemed to peal slightly at the edges,if gotten very wet.
On smaller items like grenades they seem to work perfectly well.

I used acrylics on my repro stick grenade,and that went well,and were better than enamels when painted on wood (the enamel paint soaked into the wood grain too much where as the acrylic covered and sealed)
but I have found on larger Items like shells,acrylics seem to leave deeper brush marks,and a 'plastic' feel to them.

So I think I will stick to Humbrol paint tins and use my acrylics for 'ageing' and lettering...
Would be interesting to find out what other folk use..
Cheers
Doug