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Telling new paint from old?

AndyD

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know how to tell new paint from old?
I have an 18 pdr HE projectile that is painted black but if the paint isn't original I'd like to remove it.

Also,was the driving band painted or was it left as bare metal?

Regards,
Andy
 
Andy cannot say much about the age of the paint but driving bands as a rule are left bare metal as there is no mileage in painting them as they do not corrode in genral storage and also adding paint to the band could in theory add extra wear to the barrel.
 
Here's the auction number from ebay,120779229681
Regards,
Andy
 
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I had a bid in on it, but it got pulled before the end of the auction...shame:tinysmile_hmm_t2:
 
Thanks for the replies.
What's the best way to remove the paint,I'd rather not use nitromors as I hate the stuff!?

Cheers,
Andy
 
Acetone is an excellent solvent that is usually available, for oil based paints. And it dissolves TNT!
 
OK,paint removed.
Now I need to know what the best way of getting even brown patination all over it is,any suggestions?

Cheers,
Andy
 
Just wondered if leaving it in the shed for a while where it's cold and damp could help?
The other alternative is to try to polish it to remove the patination to get it back to bright steel.

Any suggestions please?

Cheers,
Andy
 
Anyone please?
And by brown patination I don't mean rust,unless it's a form of rust and I didn't know!

Cheers,
Andy
 
A couple of the shells I own have been coated with boiled linseed oil, which dries fairly quickly, so they have a nice uniform brownish patina to them, but I think a lot of the finished result will depend on the shell surface beforehand. Too bright, and the oil finish will look odd. Wipe the shell over with white spirit before aplying the oil, so the oil spreads evenly and adheres well.
Just my tuppence worth.
Cheers!
 
Acetone is an excellent solvent that is usually available, for oil based paints. And it dissolves TNT!

Plain tap water (preferably hot) also removes Pictric Acid from so-called empty casings.

Industrial floor varnish polish is also good for preserving, cleaned and polished metals, it also dries flat leaving no brush marks and is bloody tough as a coating but can easily be removed with a Acetone solvent. I use it for workshop tools such as the surface plate on band saws and other wood working tools, prevents the bare metal surfaces from rusting (in cold damp work shops) especially when you run wood over the surfaces which marks the wood.

Waxol for car bodies is also excellent for Firearms and steel components for long term storage or normal use and for rusty corroded relic items to prevent further deterioration, it can easily be removed with white sprite for re coating. To apply for perfect results, apply with brush, wait to dry and warm with a hot air dryer (not a blow torch, as its flammable) the Waxol will run in all the nooks and crannies and soak into the porous corrosion leaving a perfect and even finish.
 
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