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restoration start
- Thread starter dano1917
- Start date
dano1917
RIP
90mm
Hi Rick, Is that a 90mm casing? What would be the purpose of the cones? Who shot J.R.? Anyway do you know the app. era these projectiles would be from. I picked them up at a surplus store about 10 years ago for next to nothing, and tried to find info on a couple of 1/2 assed attempts but had no luck. Dan
Hi Rick, Is that a 90mm casing? What would be the purpose of the cones? Who shot J.R.? Anyway do you know the app. era these projectiles would be from. I picked them up at a surplus store about 10 years ago for next to nothing, and tried to find info on a couple of 1/2 assed attempts but had no luck. Dan
those are the correct ballistic windshields. and in pretty good shape
1
18pounder
Guest
Hi Dano
You could always use these as test pieces??
Are they pitted much and need filling or just de-rusting?
If done quite a few renovations in the past if you need any advice on painting techniques or anything.
18wonder
You could always use these as test pieces??
Are they pitted much and need filling or just de-rusting?
If done quite a few renovations in the past if you need any advice on painting techniques or anything.
18wonder
dano1917
RIP
test pieces
Gee guys, I was planning on just trying my talent on these 2 boat anchors. First I want to remove rust and repaint close to original, hadn't thought far enough ahead to think about bands yet. I saw those 6pdr 6cwt restored projectiles and got the idea and figured if I start on something it should be a few worthless projectiles such as those 90mm AP projectiles. I'll try to post as I make progress and probably will ask your help along the way, which would be greatly appreciated. For now i'm pretty much looking for original color (may have been white as paint looks old and original)? This is a novice try at a restoration..Dano
Gee guys, I was planning on just trying my talent on these 2 boat anchors. First I want to remove rust and repaint close to original, hadn't thought far enough ahead to think about bands yet. I saw those 6pdr 6cwt restored projectiles and got the idea and figured if I start on something it should be a few worthless projectiles such as those 90mm AP projectiles. I'll try to post as I make progress and probably will ask your help along the way, which would be greatly appreciated. For now i'm pretty much looking for original color (may have been white as paint looks old and original)? This is a novice try at a restoration..Dano
most i've found were black with or without green ballistic windshields.
I have attached a couple of shots of the data sheets for your projos.
Your projos don't have windscreens. I believe the windscreens you have go to the M82 APCBC-T projo. There is a version of your projectile that has a windcreen, but the windscreens are aluminum and get thinner near the hole where they mount to the projo. They are typically glued to the projo.
U.S. Color code for your time period of projo (late WWII through Vietnam) for strictly Armor piercing, is black body with white lettering. You could also add a red T for tracer.
You might be able to derfinitely confirm the ID of your projos by searching for stamped letters and numbers in the body of the projo just above the rotating band. It would be the 3 letter manufacturer's code and a lot number and date along with the Model number (M77) or whatever yours are. There is the possibility that they are the ones with glue on windshield.
John
Your projos don't have windscreens. I believe the windscreens you have go to the M82 APCBC-T projo. There is a version of your projectile that has a windcreen, but the windscreens are aluminum and get thinner near the hole where they mount to the projo. They are typically glued to the projo.
U.S. Color code for your time period of projo (late WWII through Vietnam) for strictly Armor piercing, is black body with white lettering. You could also add a red T for tracer.
You might be able to derfinitely confirm the ID of your projos by searching for stamped letters and numbers in the body of the projo just above the rotating band. It would be the 3 letter manufacturer's code and a lot number and date along with the Model number (M77) or whatever yours are. There is the possibility that they are the ones with glue on windshield.
John
Attachments
1
18pounder
Guest
Making unreadable markings,readable!!!
Dano
I use a neat trick for reading corroded or very hard to read markings:
First I get a really soft pencil,6b soft.
I either rub my finger on the lead of the pencil to pick up some graphite,and gently rub the markings to be revealed or gentlt sketch across the surface with the pencill.
Its alot safer than wire brushing or using chemicals.
The markings appear as If by magic because the graphite highlights the raised surfaces only,abit like brass rubbing we used to do at school.
18pounder
Dano
I use a neat trick for reading corroded or very hard to read markings:
First I get a really soft pencil,6b soft.
I either rub my finger on the lead of the pencil to pick up some graphite,and gently rub the markings to be revealed or gentlt sketch across the surface with the pencill.
Its alot safer than wire brushing or using chemicals.
The markings appear as If by magic because the graphite highlights the raised surfaces only,abit like brass rubbing we used to do at school.
18pounder