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Re-paint 76mm armd hesh scorpion stencils

Got this projectile its longer than the last one ? nice markings on. no damage just rifle drive band .

Ken
 
Ken that longer projectile looks like it has been transplanted onto another body hence the extra length-has it been welded together about 2 inches above the band as it looks a little "jagged" in your picture-interesting though !
 
Well spotted mate i never gave it a second look. you can see a lip inside , funny seems alot of trouble to do this type of join ?The nose cone is different to , one for discussion maybe .ive herd of cars getting it !!! lol

Cheers ken
 
Ken sorry to be a pain but any chance a few detailed pictures of what may be a weld just above the band pleasde?

Why anyone would do a "cut and shut" operation on a 76mm I do not know !
 
Chris 42 RQ said:
Ken sorry to be a pain but any chance a few detailed pictures of what may be a weld just above the band pleasde?

Why anyone would do a "cut and shut" operation on a 76mm I do not know !
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Funny thing is were the weld is it's machined with the lines you would get at manufacture as if . It's not smooth and rubbed down as a weld would be its machined like the rest of projectile iwoll post some later there is a slight layer of black on it now but shows the join area better , for some reason it looks like it was done on purpose and not by a collector. If that makes any fence ?
Cheers ken

PS maybe it is just a normal join ?
 
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ken68 said:
I cant do the stencils printed them off and tried cutting around them with my hobby knife its not happening , tried all different ways of cutting ,i have a very fine and very sharp knife but just cant get the lettering done ? Stumped.
paint job and thats it .
This is frustrating as hell lol.:tinysmile_cry_t2: the wife is laughing (comment) of all the things you've done and built you cant do a bit of lettering , i can see the funny side .

cheers frustrated Kenny :cry:
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I arrange what I want as a stencil on the computer including Kanji Characters and then print out. After which I use a Stanley Knife with a fresh sharp blade. I have no troubles in cutting the stencils. The tricky part comes if you have to stencil on a curved taper, where to keep a straight line one has to stencil letter by letter while blanking out the other ones. I then have a hole cut in a sheet of news paper to place as a shield over the stencil to collect any over drift. I start spraying with a can on the sheet of newspaper until I get the right pressure which is just a whisk then quickly sweep over the stencil. I find that gives me the best results.

Afterwards I then clean up around the lettering with a corner of a rag with terps if I have to. I also found that if I gave a light smear with PVC glue to the stencil it helps to hold it tight against the projectile so as not to get any under drift. The glue then peals off afterwards when dry.

When the lettering is partly dry I then sometimes give a mild rub with mentholated spirits to give an aged look.
 
Hi i did,nt know the codes when i painted the hesh projectile , but i used plasicoat paint matt black let it cure and gave it a polish , also used same make of paint for the yellow , just tried to match the pictures of excisting hesh . To paint the nose cone i wrapped a4 paper round the body of projectile and masked you get a perfect straight line. Someone might have the 100% paint match ?
Dave my HESH one is not quite the way i want it re stencil job , heres a picture anyway

Cheers ken
 
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