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Cleaning shell cases

ckolonko

Member
Hello,

I've been quite lucky recently and have been able to buy a 75mm, Bofors and another 6pdr shell case, as well as a Turkish fuse from WW1.
I'm wanting to clean up the shell cases and reveal the headstamps and clean some rust off the fuse (to stop it rusting further) but I don't want to remove the patina from the shell cases.
What would be the best thing to use, that is readily available in the UK or that can be found around the house? I have Brasso but I think this would end up polishing up the cases too much. I also have some WD40 which I was going to use to clean up the rust from the fuse.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated :)

Thanks,

Chris





 
Hi Chris,

Nice cases and good looking fuze!
...The adapter ring on the fuze is a great part to have

Rust & oxidation is all part of the aging process & creation of patina.
Don't remove it, just slow it down or stop it.

As for polishing... Don't do it! (just my opinion)
You'll loose the patina (the aged look & finish).
Once you loose the patina, it's gone. It will take another 75+ years to gain it back.
If you're concerned with the value of the items, you can drastically reduce their value if you clean them.

If you're concerned with preservation, then here is my process... (this comes straight from a museum curator).

Just clean them;
a) Clean the casings/fuzes/items with warm soapy water (pH. neutral soap) and a soft cloth.
...use a toothbrush or brass wire brush (with caution!) to loosen and remove any crud/build-up
...a brass wire brush is relatively soft (softer than many metals) and if used with caution it won't damage the item itself
b) Dry, dry, dry & dry the items really, really well. I use a hair dryer to make sure I get all the moisture.
c) After heating the items (with a hair dryer, just warm to the touch) use Renaissance Wax (a.k.a. Restorer's Wax or Conservator's Wax) to protect them.
...heating the items allows wax to penetrate and get in all the nooks and crannies
d) Give the item a light polish with a clean soft cloth to remove excess wax.

Renaissance Wax (a.k.a. Restorer's Wax or Conservator's Wax) is a brand of microcrystalline wax polish that is widely encountered in antique restoration and museum curation. Although not appropriate for all materials, it is known to and used by almost every collection. It is also used as a primary finish for cabinetry and furniture. Renaissance wax is also used by reenactors of historic swordsmanship to protect armour and weapons. It is widely recognized that this substance is more protective and longer lasting than oil, especially for swords and helmets that are frequently touched by human hands.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Renaissance_Wax

In Canada, it's available from Lee Valley Tools as Conservator's Wax.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=20090&cat=1,190,42950

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Brad
 
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Speaking personally, cleaning and polishing a newly acquired cartridge case is to me part of the pleasure of owning it. But having done so, I then allow them to dull down again at their own pace. i.e. the long term object of the exercise is to achieve a light and even patination - not 'bling'.

But that's merely my personal preference - I do not claim it is the 'right' thing to do. 'If in doubt, don't clean' is a perfectly sensible approach to take.
 
Whatever you do, don't use naval jelly or any other type of acid like vinegar, etc.. Naval jelly eats away the zinc in the brass and makes it turn red. They sell solutions her in the states for cleaning brass cartridge casings for reloading small arms ammo, but I don't know about the UK.
 
I've had good results using dilute citric acid to clean heavily tarnished and / or dirty brass. Care needs to be taken with how strong a concentration you use and how long you leave it in for, but so far I haven't had any disasters.
 
Thanks for all the help everyone :) I like the idea of giving the cases a good wash with PH neutral soap but I'm not sure whether Renaissance Wax is available in the UK. Would using Brasso on the cases have any negative effects at all?
 
Yes it would,Brasso is abrasive!.....in my opinion leave well alone.they weren't shiny when new so why polish them now?

Tony
 
Hi,
I got pretty good results using Green scouring pads and fairy liquid lightly scrubbing in a CIRCULAR motion, then the same again using white non scratch pads. The white pads gently blend in any scratching of the brass till invisible, as long as you stick to a small circular motion.
Then dry off completely.
The great thing is you get a semi-shine, not brightly polished but not dull either. And its a uniform finish too. I managed to turn round many a knackered case doing this.
Just takes elbow grease and patience....
Good luck!
D
 
Re post #7

Yes it is. A few years ago I found some at an art shop near the top of Tottenham Court Road, In a side street near Warren Street Tube station. Can't remember the name - sorry.

I've since moved to using a matt spray varnish (not on brass) from B & Q. Ideal for treating cleaned steel and cast iron. When it's dry it is invisible and nothing rusts afterwards.

John
 
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I have got a tin of Renaissance Wax which I bought in B & Q a while ago.
When I used to clean large cartridge brass, I always remember what they looked like when I opened a new box, so I never used metal polish because it is not right.
The green abrasive pad and and washing up liquid is good, but I always used fine wire wool with washing up liquid and cleaned lengthways.
 
Here are my humble thoughts and experiences on cleaning cases several decades ago when I should have been out chasing "chicks" rather that spending hours in the garage:

http://www.bocn.co.uk/vbforum/threads/74113-Are-they-worth-it?highlight=cleaning+brass

Post # 10

My advice 35 years later: don't waste your time - there's more in life than polishing brass!!!

There are also a couple of "group" shots in my gallery (ex-collection), it will give you the overall "uniform" appearance for display purposes if you still want to persist.

Cheers
Drew

One last word of "wisdom" - as Hazord pointed out in post #4, be aware that if the case has been recovered from the sea then the zinc has normally been leached out leaving the characteristic "pink" tingle..........depending on the extent, perhaps left very much as is!
 

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