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Restoring Projectile Markings

Antman

Member
Anybody have any ideas how to restore the markings on projectiles? Is there someplace where custom stencils can be made or purchased?
 
Hinrik

Thans for the response. Price seems a little high, but if I have just paid 100-200 Euros for a projectile, I guess 2-3 Euros for good looking markings is probably worth it.
 
Apologies if I'm missing something obvious, but how exactly are you meant to use the Milcorem stencils? If you just cut the white lettering out of the black sheet, you'll have lots of gaps within the symbols and characters. He has various ones I'm interested in, but I'm slightly confused as to what you're meant to do with them.
 
Apologies if I'm missing something obvious, but how exactly are you meant to use the Milcorem stencils? If you just cut the white lettering out of the black sheet, you'll have lots of gaps within the symbols and characters. He has various ones I'm interested in, but I'm slightly confused as to what you're meant to do with them.

You peel the backing sheet off, apply the stencil to the shell, rub it around the edges with the back of your nail to prevent paint bleed, peel off the top paper and apply paint/ stipple or aerosol. let the paint dry for a short while and peel off stencil, picking out the centers of letters with the tip of a scalpel blade. That's what I do at least, there a probably a few variations on a theme...
Cheers
gary
 
Not all projectiles were stenciled, they were rolled over a printing block in a jig. Depended on the type of markings used factory and set up they had. If stencils were used the lettering had breaks in the wording, they used traditional stencils. Anything else was rolled.
To add war time markings were done as they came with odd marks here and there, as long as it could be read or identified that was good enough to a standard, as for neatness another story. Peace time and modern projectiles were markrd with a bit of care but saying that camp marked drill or practice rounds​ especially mortar rounds done by squaddies well thats all I can say. Do some research and look at marked examples will help.
 
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Hope that these pictures will more than answer any questions that one might have. Just scanned them from TM9-1905 Ammunition Renovation. The manual will be my next PDF project and hopefully will have it done and uploaded sometime next year.


STENCILING_0001.jpgSTENCILING_0002.jpgSTENCILING_0003.jpgSTENCILING_0004.jpgSTENCILING_0005.jpgSTENCILING_0006.jpgSTENCILING_0007.jpgSTENCILING_0008.jpg
 
You peel the backing sheet off, apply the stencil to the shell, rub it around the edges with the back of your nail to prevent paint bleed, peel off the top paper and apply paint/ stipple or aerosol. let the paint dry for a short while and peel off stencil, picking out the centers of letters with the tip of a scalpel blade. That's what I do at least, there a probably a few variations on a theme...
Thanks. In which case I was missing something obvious.... I think I shall be purchasing a selection shortly.

Cheers,
Mark
 
Has any one used Tesors brand Fed standard paint for painting lettering?

http://www.testors.com/~/media/Digi...delMaster_IntMilitary_FigureEnamelPaints.ashx

I found this 1972 manual for Fed Standard colors.....Lettering, yellow, FS 33538, Practice ammo blue, FS 34087....Tesors states they make the FS standard colors.

http://www.alternatewars.com/BBOW/Markings/MIL-STD-709C.pdf

I have an Army 3inch that I will try inking and painting. It is in a rather pristine steel case, but the M62 projectile looks naked and it has has been previously repainted and does not match the original paint I have on some pieces.....so, why not?
 

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While on the subject, the one I plan to letter the projo, the case has red markings in a red box, faint but readable, near the head,and not yellow lettering as the one pictured. The red lettered one is marked " 3 in MKII M2B1, Lot NS 3. 6, crossed cannon, 1943" , different than the yellow marked one ( worn shape, pictured) dated 1944. Any thoughts as to why? In other words, the better case 1943 is marked in red, the worn one dated 1944 is marked in yellow.
 

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they probably found that the red lettering on the brown lacquered case was very hard to read so changed to yellow to make it easier to see.
 
The TM-9 1905 ammunition renovation manual is a must for collectors. Does this French company do PayPal.
 
You could cut your own stencils, takes time but very satisfying and means things like lot numbers wont be the same as other peoples. Look at Rickoshea's posts and his are all hand done, including the ammo collection he restored that belongs to Bovington tank museum, very impressive indeed!
 
Hi May I ask what item you need to stencil ?

1 One of my jobs at the depot was to cut stencil

So I may be able to help you


Steve
 
Hi Steve,
Do you know what material is or was used by the MoD for making stencils (acetate or some sort of waterproof paper?).
I'm about to embark on a stencilling project on a replica WW1 ammo box, and am unsure what would be the best material to use for cutting my own stencils. (I've copied them from an original box).
I'll be using a stipple brush to apply the paint. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance!
Dyl
 
When I was involved in re-enactments I made lots of different stencils by the following methods.

Photocopying the original article if it was flat and not too heavy for the copier, encapsulate the copy, then cut out the lettering with a scalpel type craft knife.

Making up the artwork on a computer, printing and encapsulating, then cutting out the letters.

Tracing onto acetate, (overhead projector film), enlarging the tracing on a photocopier, tidying up the lettering, reducing back to correct size on the photocopier, encapsulating, cutting out lettering.

For the stippling, I used the sponge side of a small washing up sponge, (the scrubbing side adds some rigidity to the sponge. You can get packets of 10 - 15 sponges in most pound stores, so they are cheap enough to throw away after each job.

Use paint that is slightly dry, or thick. Old paint often works well if it has not discoloured in the tin.
 
heres what ive been doing for stencil reproduction.go to a graphic designer,signwriter or similar and take them a photocopy of what you want and they make it on this film.you peel off the back and stick it in place,then peel off the front and pick out the small centers of the letters the spray or brush to suit
very easy to use and you can have it made exactly the right style of lettering
it will stick to painted,varnished wood and metal no problem
 

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