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Ballistic Cap Variations on 8.8cm PzGr.39 Series Projectiles

peregrinvs

Well-Known Member
I've just bought (because it was cheap) what I believe to be a 8.8cm PzGr.39/1 projectile. It was cheap because the ballistic caps are missing. Milcorem does resin replicas of the caps, but this is the type with the groove between the ballistic cap and the penetrating cap.

https://www.milcorem.fr/obus-de-76-à-89mm/

However, all the pictures of the PzGr.39/43 variant I can find have the groove between the caps whereas all but one of the pictures of the PzGr.39/1 variant I can find don't have the groove. Here's the one exception:

https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/...1236/lot-2c62f913-5425-4f0c-b352-a80f00aa2ae5

So is the Milcorem repro correct for either a 39/43 or a 39/1, or is it incorrect for my projectile? I'm hoping the presence or non-presence of the groove are merely manufacturing variations.

Thanks,
Mark
 
The item concerned. I've included some comparisons with a 39/43 variant.
8,8cm PzGr.39-1.JPG8,8cm PzGr (3).JPG8,8cm PzGr (2).JPG8,8cm PzGr (4).JPG8,8cm PzGr (5).JPG8,8cm PzGr (6).JPG

If someone could clarify the significance in the variation of the ballistic caps, I'd be very grateful.
 
Just a difference in productions method. Some shells had the ballistc cap roll crimped in place, some had the cap spot welded in place. Both (With or without groove) are correct.
For the rest, there is no way to see if your shell is an 8,8cm Pzgr39 or a PzGr39/1 than by metalurgical investigation (destructive testing) as the nose cap with the 1 in place is missing. 1 meant a better and harder quality steel was used for the projectile body.

Regards, DJH
 
Last edited:
Actually there were 3 methods of fixing the ballistic cap to the penetrating cap. Roll crimping in a grove, welding and spot welding. See picture from left to right.
 

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Update: the repro resin caps have arrived from Milcorem.

The plan is to fill in the pitting on the projectile, epoxy the repro caps on top and then repaint. Then add to a 8,8cm Flak 18 case with a C/22 primer and et voilà, one Tiger E AP round.
 

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A mere 20 months later, but suddenly I have all this time on my hands...

Resin cap epoxied in position + a top coat of black. I have a set of stencils ready to mark it up.
21A6D303-6AB9-498E-AF84-89269559C672.jpg
 
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