japanese & US before & after

[youngbrain]

hi mates, i missed you all since i've been out for soooooo long...

i've done some restoration on my rusty stuff & revive them w/ TLC

here are pictures of before & after of a 50mm knee mortar shell. i have not yet stenciled it with the marking date but soon to follow

 

[youngbrain]

here is a jap 75mm HE projo from rust to masked...

 

[youngbrain]

another one is a US 3 inch projectile from ww2. I don't know the name of it & the correct color scheme... Here's the before/after...

 

[youngbrain]

It will be great if some one could post theirs with the correct & detailed color scheme & stencil marks of any of the 3 shells i've posted... thanks

keep them coming mates!

 

[2pounder]

restoration

Nice work! 2pr

 

[BOUGAINVILLE]

Hi young brain,
You have done an excellent job.
Your colours for the 50mm mortar rounds looks like a pretty good match.

I have just restored one myself. I was lucky enough to have faint traces of paint to reproduce markings exactly. The only thing that I didn't have enough of was the fillers mark in the white circle. So far I have had no response on my enquiry on fillers marks for the Mukden Arsenal.

There can be a variation in the positioning of the yellow band and the size and positioning of the filling dates and fillers mark. I would think it would have a bearing on what arsenal they come from.

Cheers,
BOUGAINVILLE

 

[ogreve]

Great work, very nice!
Bougainville said it: so far, so good. They look well done, with the proper colour bands where they should go.

Now, as for the rest of the markings, you may want to contact me per e-mail (you have my address ), as I have extensive documentation of the proper markings.

Also; Bougainville: yesterday I finally received a decent set of incoming Jap items, amongst which a knee mortar round manufactured at Mukden. Unfortunately it's not in pristine condition (though some 60% of the paint is still present, it's rather darkened), and the filling mark cannot be read anymore. The projo has the paint style with the dual white and yellow colour bands.
I also have a mint sectioned one, of which I'm not certain where it was manufactured, right next to the '1940' date stamp (i.e., the one stamped into the round, not the ink marking) there are two markings, of which the right most ought to be the arsenal mark, yet it doesn't look like any of the arsenal marks I know. It could possibly be a slightly miss-stamped Osaka arsenal mark, but I can't be certain... This one has the single yellow band paint style.

Cheers,
Olafo

 

[HAZORD]

Very nice work on the restoration! Are you using body putty to fill in the rust holes then turning them on your lathe?

Your 3 inch/76mm U.S. projectile is an M42 HE projo with concrete piercing fuze. These were used in a procedure designed to close Jap caves in the Pacific islands. The tanks would fire a few rounds of APCBC-T HE into the rocks above the cave to weaken the structure, then fire the M42s that contained more HE to bring the roof of the cave down.

 

[shelldude]

U.S. M43 3-inch/76mm HE...

Hello Andrew,

You did a VERY NICE job restoring your inert ordnance! I've included a photograph of the color scheme for the U.S. WWII 3-inch/76mm M43 HE projectile. The color intensity is not the best...

Best regards,

Randall

 

[youngbrain]

Hello Andrew,

You did a VERY NICE job restoring your inert ordnance! I've included a photograph of the color scheme for the U.S. WWII 3-inch/76mm M43 HE projectile. The color intensity is not the best...

Best regards,

Randall

Thanks for the color scheme sir, i'll try to stencil the projo like that...
I seems that the base color is Olive Green(i'm on the right track) & stencil yellow... Be posting when finished... Thanks andrew

 

[youngbrain]

hello bougainville;

try to have your 50mm photoed & posted here, many of our mates could help anyway we are at the same track before & after japanese restoration... best

 

[HAZORD]

Your painting project poses an interesting question. The M42 HE projo was used in both the 76mm Gun that was used on the Super Sherman Tank, and the 3 inch gun that was used in the M10 tank destroyer. The European theatre had both motor carriages, so it would be OK to paint your projo as either a 76G M42A1 Projo or a 3G M42A1 projo if you were in Europe, but being in the Pacific, I'm not sure if the 3 inch Tank Destroyer was used in the Philippines. I know that the Shermans were used in the Pacific theatre, so the safe bet to be most correct would be to paint it as a 76G, SHELL M42A1, yellow letters on an OD projo body.

If any of our members can confirm the presence of the M10 Tank Destroyer in the Pacific, then you could also paint it as in the rendering that Randall posted.

 

[youngbrain]

Your painting project poses an interesting question. The M42 HE projo was used in both the 76mm Gun that was used on the Super Sherman Tank, and the 3 inch gun that was used in the M10 tank destroyer. The European theatre had both motor carriages, so it would be OK to paint your projo as either a 76G M42A1 Projo or a 3G M42A1 projo if you were in Europe, but being in the Pacific, I'm not sure if the 3 inch Tank Destroyer was used in the Phillipines. I know that the Shermans were used in the Pacific theatre, so the safe bet to be most correct would be to paint it as a 76G, SHELL M42A1, yellow letters on an OD projo body.

If any of our members can confirm the presence of the M10 Tank Destroyer in the Pacific, then you could also paint it as in the rendering that Randall posted.

Thanks for the note sir John...

so you mean that stencil should be?

76G
TNT
SHELL M42A1

got a photo sir?

to answer your question earlier, yes i used epoxy body filler to catch up it the corrosion & sanded it on a lathe. Bourrelet could be achieved by wrapping the lower part of the body with masking tape, the thickness of the tape serves as a guide, fill the ogive portion w/ filler & sand to size. finally unwrap the tape & you have a fake bourrelet...hehehehe...

 

[HAZORD]

While you were replying to my post, I started looking on the internet for info on the M10 in the Pacific. The M10 was used in the Philippines and 3 battalions of them were used:

http://books.google.com/books?id=FFkO0Skm6qgC&pg=RA1-PT16&lpg=RA1-PT16&dq=m10+tank+destroyer+in+the+Pacific&source=bl&ots=zZYvtQJ0MI&sig=UWQ1W0C1xhUdkbNgEBpc-ci_Cgg&hl=en&ei=ZHsMTKjvAYnaNq2Pha0B&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=9&ved=0CDYQ6AEwCA#v=onepage&q=m10%20tank%20destroyer%20in%20the%20Pacific&f=false

So, to answer your question, go ahead and letter your projo as in the rendering that Randall posted 3G, TNT, SHELL M42A1

Normally your projo would have an impact nose fuze, but it is specially configured with the concrete piercing fuze for closing caves.

 

[BOUGAINVILLE]

Hi youngbrain,
Here is the 50mm mortar that I'm restoring.

I am still trying to find the correct fillers mark that was in a white circle. I haven't as yet painted the filling dates and fillers mark in circle, both of which are white. I will do that once I have the correct fillers mark.

This 50mm mortar was made at the Mukden Arsenal in 1940 and filled in January 1942. I was lucky in that enough paint remained that I could match them reasonably well and get the correct positioning as used by the Mukden Arsenal. Unfortunately not enough of the fillers mark remained to reproduce it, only enough to ascertain if I have the correct mark when and if I find it.

Cheers,
BOUGAINVILLE

hello bougainville;

try to have your 50mm photoed & posted here, many of our mates could help anyway we are at the same track before & after japanese restoration... best

 

[youngbrain]

wow... very nice Bougainville, sweet 50mm... lets try to find the correct stencil for that. Can any one help us please..

I don't know which arsenal my 50mm came from because of the corrosion, i could stencil the easiest on mine hehehe...

Here's a Japanese 105mm after painting, as usual no stencil yet & no band...

 

[youngbrain]

japanese 105 after painting... forgot the before

 

[leeski]

very nice restores youngbrain you have been busy there all looking great


regards lee

 

[BOUGAINVILLE]

It's a shame that some prick floged the drive band for scrap. I wounder if there is anyway you could make a fake drive band such as building it up with bog and then on the lathe shaping it to look like a drive band and then paint it a brass colour. Just a thought.

Besides that a very nice piece.

Cheers,
BOUGAINVILLE

japanese 105 after painting... forgot the before

 

[youngbrain]

fake rotating band

It's a shame that some prick floged the drive band for scrap. I wounder if there is anyway you could make a fake drive band such as building it up with bog and then on the lathe shaping it to look like a drive band and then paint it a brass colour. Just a thought.

Besides that a very nice piece.

Cheers,
BOUGAINVILLE

Yes Sir, someone pried the copper out for what reason, God Knows...

And yes i could fake the rotating band with body filler but i doubt if could carry the weight of the projo if inserted into the shell w/o supporting it from the inside. ever i find a shell...

here's some photos of a US 37mm w/ fake driving band made from body filler. i forgot again to photo it before but here it is now. But it could support itself coz its light...