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rust protection from internal side of grenades

goran_croatia

Well-Known Member
I need an advice for protection steel grenades from inside of rusting.I always use solution of citric acid with destilled water as rust remover,and it is great,it needs couple of days but the effect is great.
But after washing with water and drying with hair drier,I need good colour for protection my grenades from rusting inside.I usually pour some nitro based anticorrosive primer inside my grenades,and shake them well so the colour can cover the complete internal surface.After drying of that primer anticorrosive colour I sometimes pour any other colour in the grenade and shake it well.That colour is dry after couple of days and grenades is ready to be closed with the fuze and put on the shelf with rest of my collection.

But what to do with steel grenades with thin walls which are rusty??Have you ever used Hammerite colours to stop that rust procces and your experience with them?
Also how do you protect your inert grenades from iside of rusting?
 
I used a little bit of 3 in one oil. it does the job for me, and also keeps threads in good condition. a light motor oil will probably do the same job.
 
I need an advice for protection steel grenades from inside of rusting.I always use solution of citric acid with destilled water as rust remover,and it is great,it needs couple of days but the effect is great.
But after washing with water and drying with hair drier,I need good colour for protection my grenades from rusting inside.I usually pour some nitro based anticorrosive primer inside my grenades,and shake them well so the colour can cover the complete internal surface.After drying of that primer anticorrosive colour I sometimes pour any other colour in the grenade and shake it well.That colour is dry after couple of days and grenades is ready to be closed with the fuze and put on the shelf with rest of my collection.

But what to do with steel grenades with thin walls which are rusty??Have you ever used Hammerite colours to stop that rust procces and your experience with them?
Also how do you protect your inert grenades from iside of rusting?
interesting
For inside a grenade i would spray witha little WD40 or somthing like that.

If you cant get rid of loose rust inside an object you could use a rust CONVERTER.
Hammerite make one.
The rust is converted to a solid black hard layer,and can be further protected by a spray of rust.
dont use it on the outside though!

Think it depends on how humid your house is.
My wife likes the house quite warm so its quite dry as we havent any damp.
Your location in the world could make you decide to take extra precaution against rust forming or increasing.

Have you tried looking a using an automobile product?

To be honest your system sounds fine.

oh and the hammerite paints are really thick,maybe too thick.

regards
from very cold and snowy,robin hood country!
 
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If you cant get rid of loose rust inside an object you could use a rust CONVERTER.
Hammerite make one.
The rust is converted to a solid black hard layer,and can be further protected by a spray of rust.
dont use it on the outside though!
18pounder please tell me the exact name of that Hammerite product?

Some of my grenades are very rusty from inside because in croatian war-made grenades Vitezit explosive was mainly used as filler and it has huge corrosive caracteristics,so after making those grenades inert there is big amount of loose rust,and internal surface is very bit with rust.So solution of citric acid can't elliminate it completly.I even sometimes fill that grenades with epoxy resin,because it makes them solid from inside and it stops internal rusted surface contact with air,so the rust is stopped.

On which automobile products do you mean?
 
18pounder please tell me the exact name of that Hammerite product?

Some of my grenades are very rusty from inside because in croatian war-made grenades Vitezit explosive was mainly used as filler and it has huge corrosive caracteristics,so after making those grenades inert there is big amount of loose rust,and internal surface is very bit with rust.So solution of citric acid can't elliminate it completly.I even sometimes fill that grenades with epoxy resin,because it makes them solid from inside and it stops internal rusted surface contact with air,so the rust is stopped.

On which automobile products do you mean?

hello mate
Hammerite do something called CURE-RUST.
Like i said it converts rust,but doesnt remove it.

When i meant automobile /car products i meant things like sealers and underseal paints that are wax like and oily that stop rust.
regards
 
I have never heard for that kind of automobile paints...I will check in some paint shops.

I found HAMMERITE No1 RUST BEATER in one paint shop...does any of you have experience with that product?
 
I bought yesterday corrosion inhibitor called CORRVERTER.It doesn't contain phosphorous acid and it is not agressive.It is white liquid which can be diluted with 5-10% of water.On the manual is written that it can be brushed on rusty surfaces and that it reacts with rust and creates some kind of plastic coat which stopps corrosion and which can be used instead of primer color.So I poured it into one of my grenades which was pretty rusty from inside.After 8 hours of drying,it became brown instead of white and in all places inside the grenade where it reacted with rust,a kind of plastic layer was formed.The colour of the layer varies from ochre to black,depending of degree of corrosion.
The manual says that the reaction is finished after 8-12 hours and that Corrverter is then dry completly.But I poured bigger amount of it into my grenade and shaked it well that it can cover all surface inside well.Today,after 24 hours of drying,the side walls of grenade internal surface are dry but bigger amount of wet Corrverter stayed on it's bottom.

So I took a long brush and gently picked all excess liquid from grenade's bottom.And below that excess Corrverter there is a plastic layer formed of it's reaction with rust.
Now I'll wait for couple of days to be sure that it is dry completly and I will pour some primer nitro-based anti-corrosive paint in my grenade,and again after couple of days red gloss colour:xd:!

Has any of you guys ever used Corrverter,and can you tell something about your experiences with it?

Corrverter is US made
 
be careful with some of the rust removers on the market, as some are prone to remove paint and to cause pitting, be sure to lube up after as once cleaned there is no protection on the items to prevent further rust.
 
I bought yesterday corrosion inhibitor called CORRVERTER.It doesn't contain phosphorous acid and it is not agressive.It is white liquid which can be diluted with 5-10% of water.On the manual is written that it can be brushed on rusty surfaces and that it reacts with rust and creates some kind of plastic coat which stopps corrosion and which can be used instead of primer color.So I poured it into one of my grenades which was pretty rusty from inside.After 8 hours of drying,it became brown instead of white and in all places inside the grenade where it reacted with rust,a kind of plastic layer was formed.The colour of the layer varies from ochre to black,depending of degree of corrosion.
The manual says that the reaction is finished after 8-12 hours and that Corrverter is then dry completly.But I poured bigger amount of it into my grenade and shaked it well that it can cover all surface inside well.Today,after 24 hours of drying,the side walls of grenade internal surface are dry but bigger amount of wet Corrverter stayed on it's bottom.

So I took a long brush and gently picked all excess liquid from grenade's bottom.And below that excess Corrverter there is a plastic layer formed of it's reaction with rust.
Now I'll wait for couple of days to be sure that it is dry completly and I will pour some primer nitro-based anti-corrosive paint in my grenade,and again after couple of days red gloss colour:xd:!

Has any of you guys ever used Corrverter,and can you tell something about your experiences with it?

Corrverter is US made

hello mate
sounds allmost the same as Hammerite Curust.
Ive used it a few times of non military stuff like my old 1968 hilman superminx when i was patching it up.
Its ok for areas that dont require a nice finish,because it converts rust to another substance and doesnt remove it!
Its not very good for areas that require painting and are on show,as all the rust should be removed and then the surface repainted.
Its quite good for parts that cant be dipped.
I tent to use dips more for ornance,and either repaint for protection or light coating of 3 in 1 type oil.
Its sounds like you are happy with your results.
Can you share some images please?
before and after maybe and the products that you have used.
 
From what I have read in this thread, I have to agree with 18pounder. If corrosion is on inside of grenade then to just stop it should do nicely unless you're a perfectionist and do a lot of looking on the inside...Dano
 
Hi there, we have Finnigans Waxoyl over here in the UK. Easy to use and obtained from car accessory shops.Comes in cans as well as aerosol. I pour some into a container and gently warm it with a hairdrier to make it runny. works a treat and if it spills on to paint it will not damage it.Just wipe it off. If the task is done on a warm day it flows easier.I have done all the internals of my grenades and rust is not a problem.A wee tip, shake the grenade to remove any excess but do this outside! Once "cooled" it gives a fab wax coating which can be left alone. Hope this helps.I would be very careful with 3 in 1 or wd 40 as it can have a tendancy to soften paint stencilling and may cause an unwanted effect! This happened to me with a previous stick grenade which had some nice stencilling but the previous owner had used 3 in 1 oil!Stencillling went a wee bit soft. Cheers from Bonny wet Scotland! Lewis aka Murdosbunker
 
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