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WW1 projectile colour scheme info required
- Thread starter Cirus
- Start date
1
18pounder
Guest
ww1yellow
Hi mate,
paint is a interesting subject,and is fraught with opinion.
It depends on what u want.
Do you want a factory paint finish? Then your paint job will need to look quite bright and semi glossy.
Or do you want to recreate 90 year old looking paint? then you will need to look at weathering techniques,and how worn you want your paint surface.
Or field worn? e.g.factory paint finish but with a recent looking wear and tear from handling?
90 year old paint will look very diffrent from new paint regardless of 'correct 'shade.
Also,difffrent paint batches and factorys will vary the colour.
If you have the general shade correct then alittle artistic licence can be used.
On my 18pounder (that was a total relic) I have used the typical yellow ochar semi gloss humbrol modelling paint.
Humbrol produce some very nice 'w1'colours.
I usually use 3 to 4 thin coats and when everthing is dry I flat it down with very fine wet and dry to bring the surfaces together.
I mix up some muddy acrylic paint into a wash (browns,dab of black mostly water)apply the wash liberally to painted surface and either dab off alittle with a sponge or wait to dry and gently rub down with the highest grade of wet and dry.
Marking/filling bands.
I use Tamiya masking tape from modell shops as this stuff stretches a little and conforms to curves,normal masking tape doesnt.
You can also use black electrical tape for masking too as this conforms to irregular surface.
If you look at the projectiles/renovation section you will find diagrams of the diffrent colour coding.
Just dont be too critical!
Hi mate,
paint is a interesting subject,and is fraught with opinion.
It depends on what u want.
Do you want a factory paint finish? Then your paint job will need to look quite bright and semi glossy.
Or do you want to recreate 90 year old looking paint? then you will need to look at weathering techniques,and how worn you want your paint surface.
Or field worn? e.g.factory paint finish but with a recent looking wear and tear from handling?
90 year old paint will look very diffrent from new paint regardless of 'correct 'shade.
Also,difffrent paint batches and factorys will vary the colour.
If you have the general shade correct then alittle artistic licence can be used.
On my 18pounder (that was a total relic) I have used the typical yellow ochar semi gloss humbrol modelling paint.
Humbrol produce some very nice 'w1'colours.
I usually use 3 to 4 thin coats and when everthing is dry I flat it down with very fine wet and dry to bring the surfaces together.
I mix up some muddy acrylic paint into a wash (browns,dab of black mostly water)apply the wash liberally to painted surface and either dab off alittle with a sponge or wait to dry and gently rub down with the highest grade of wet and dry.
Marking/filling bands.
I use Tamiya masking tape from modell shops as this stuff stretches a little and conforms to curves,normal masking tape doesnt.
You can also use black electrical tape for masking too as this conforms to irregular surface.
If you look at the projectiles/renovation section you will find diagrams of the diffrent colour coding.
Just dont be too critical!
Hi, its also worth mentioning that when they painted the banding on the WW1 projectiles in the first place they wouldn't have used masking tape etc. If you look at the original paint on older projectiles some of them are really rough looking. Bands were hand painted onto the projectile. I agree though they do look nice when done well and there are a few people out there who seem to be masters at this sort of restoration.
Hope this helps.
Dave.
Hope this helps.
Dave.