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Dopp.Z. S/60 (brass)
- Thread starter Mrfuze
- Start date
Lovely sectioning job you did on this one - I assumed that judging by the standards of your sectioned rounds that they were factory done i.e. where if they make a mistake they can just get another off the production line.
Can you share some detail on the sort of equipment you section fuzes and rounds with, surely its not a normal hacksaw?? There's a few of us on the forum who like sectioned items but knowing where to start on something like a fuze would be a complete mystery to me.
Dave.
Can you share some detail on the sort of equipment you section fuzes and rounds with, surely its not a normal hacksaw?? There's a few of us on the forum who like sectioned items but knowing where to start on something like a fuze would be a complete mystery to me.
Dave.
cutaways
To Dave,
regarding the cutaways.......
I have a small lathe and a milling machine, that's all what I have on machinery. If I do cutaways, I have to disassemble the fuze in all its parts. After this the most important thing is, to know, how this fuze operates and works and which detail I want to show (or what is important for functioning to show). Cutaways I do for the Federal Government are different from the once I do for myself. They don't need the details f.e. gear cutting of the clockwork. They need to know, how and where the striker is located, the primer etc..
The next thing to do is starting with the fuze housing on the mill, whereas it is an easier task if you just have some centric movable parts in the fuze, or you need to cut off the body at different angles or sides. After this it is really a milling work and trying- -take out, assemble the internal parts, take it back on the mill etc. When the body is done, I start with internal parts or compounds and I just fit them to the body during the milling process. Very delicate pieces I cut off by hand (saw) or with the Dremel tools. After all the parts are ready, I take the "good old file" put fine sandpaper with chalk on it and smoothen the surface of the cut metall pieces to get a smooth metal surface. After that I re-produce the detonators by solid copper pieces or aluminum pieces (dependent on the orig. deto materials.) All explosive - and booster charges and lead-ins and -outs are replaced by wood pieces I make to fit on the lathe. They get painted afterwards. If all the bits and pieces are finished I assemble them back together by using the instant second or 2-compound glue. The last thing to do is finish them off with a good satin clear paint, which should not age, crack or get a yellow tone, even after years. For a more complicated fuze I need 1-2 days, for easier once approx 1/2hour - 3 to 4 hours. Finally you have to excuse my "easy language" since I'm still a German with US-citizenship.
Mrfuze, USA
To Dave,
regarding the cutaways.......
I have a small lathe and a milling machine, that's all what I have on machinery. If I do cutaways, I have to disassemble the fuze in all its parts. After this the most important thing is, to know, how this fuze operates and works and which detail I want to show (or what is important for functioning to show). Cutaways I do for the Federal Government are different from the once I do for myself. They don't need the details f.e. gear cutting of the clockwork. They need to know, how and where the striker is located, the primer etc..
The next thing to do is starting with the fuze housing on the mill, whereas it is an easier task if you just have some centric movable parts in the fuze, or you need to cut off the body at different angles or sides. After this it is really a milling work and trying- -take out, assemble the internal parts, take it back on the mill etc. When the body is done, I start with internal parts or compounds and I just fit them to the body during the milling process. Very delicate pieces I cut off by hand (saw) or with the Dremel tools. After all the parts are ready, I take the "good old file" put fine sandpaper with chalk on it and smoothen the surface of the cut metall pieces to get a smooth metal surface. After that I re-produce the detonators by solid copper pieces or aluminum pieces (dependent on the orig. deto materials.) All explosive - and booster charges and lead-ins and -outs are replaced by wood pieces I make to fit on the lathe. They get painted afterwards. If all the bits and pieces are finished I assemble them back together by using the instant second or 2-compound glue. The last thing to do is finish them off with a good satin clear paint, which should not age, crack or get a yellow tone, even after years. For a more complicated fuze I need 1-2 days, for easier once approx 1/2hour - 3 to 4 hours. Finally you have to excuse my "easy language" since I'm still a German with US-citizenship.
Mrfuze, USA
ehre_treue
account suspended
Mrfuze
What is the best way to section a the following Dopp.Z. 91 Dopp.Z. 92 Dopp.Z. 98? I can remove the retaining pins from the caps but I am never able to remove the caps themselves. I have made a few attempts at cutaways, but always end up cutting the internal parts. I would love any advice you have to give. Or if you had any for sale I would gladly purchase them. Always looking to increase my knowledge and collection.
What is the best way to section a the following Dopp.Z. 91 Dopp.Z. 92 Dopp.Z. 98? I can remove the retaining pins from the caps but I am never able to remove the caps themselves. I have made a few attempts at cutaways, but always end up cutting the internal parts. I would love any advice you have to give. Or if you had any for sale I would gladly purchase them. Always looking to increase my knowledge and collection.