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Japanese Type 100?
- Thread starter tighe_n
- Start date
BOUGAINVILLE
Well-Known Member
The fuze on the right is indeed a Type 100.
Here is a link for a photo of one with basic information;
http://www.bocn.co.uk/gallery/showimage.php?i=8067&c=736
The fuze on the left is not a correct fuze and looks very suspect as if it has been made to "look the part".
The mortar on the left has been played with absolutely when it comes to markings as the weight deviation mark of a cross should be white not red and on both mortars the red is of the wrong shade with the fuze adaptor on the left one looking close enough but still not happy with it.
Sorry to be so blunt but the value is only in the raw bodies (disregarding the paint work) and the Type 100 fuze and only if it is complete and not gutted.
To cheer you up both bodies look in good condition with good clear markings and can read a few characters but if you had a closer shot of them I should be able to give you the month and arsenal of manufacture. The one on the right is 1942 and the one on the left is 1941
I hope that you didn't pay very much for them both. Good examples are plentiful with original paint and you should be able to pick one up for between USD$100 - $160 each depending on venue.
Here is a link for a photo of one with basic information;
http://www.bocn.co.uk/gallery/showimage.php?i=8067&c=736
The fuze on the left is not a correct fuze and looks very suspect as if it has been made to "look the part".
The mortar on the left has been played with absolutely when it comes to markings as the weight deviation mark of a cross should be white not red and on both mortars the red is of the wrong shade with the fuze adaptor on the left one looking close enough but still not happy with it.
Sorry to be so blunt but the value is only in the raw bodies (disregarding the paint work) and the Type 100 fuze and only if it is complete and not gutted.
To cheer you up both bodies look in good condition with good clear markings and can read a few characters but if you had a closer shot of them I should be able to give you the month and arsenal of manufacture. The one on the right is 1942 and the one on the left is 1941
I hope that you didn't pay very much for them both. Good examples are plentiful with original paint and you should be able to pick one up for between USD$100 - $160 each depending on venue.
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Thanks for all the information on them. I guess I did over pay a bit then, I paid $200. for the pair. But at least I got some other great deals at the auction that day. I will get clear pics of the markings for you. I figured one of the fuzes had to be wrong when they looked different, and I was suspect about the paint as well. Oh well, they are still nice to display.
BOUGAINVILLE
Well-Known Member
Here is the link to my mortar restoration. The colours, markings and positioning have all been carefully researched so as to get it spot on.
http://www.bocn.co.uk/vbforum/threads/78798-Japanese-Army-Type-97-81mm-Mortar
Not all is lost and with a wee bit of time and effort this is what you can achieve. Your mortars are prime candidates for restoration. Although mine look newish, paint wise, I have since figured out a trick to take the newness away and have done so on my Type 97 Grenade.
http://www.bocn.co.uk/gallery/showimage.php?i=7510&c=736
If you want to go down this road then I am willing to help out with advice.
Cheers,
Robert
http://www.bocn.co.uk/vbforum/threads/78798-Japanese-Army-Type-97-81mm-Mortar
Not all is lost and with a wee bit of time and effort this is what you can achieve. Your mortars are prime candidates for restoration. Although mine look newish, paint wise, I have since figured out a trick to take the newness away and have done so on my Type 97 Grenade.
http://www.bocn.co.uk/gallery/showimage.php?i=7510&c=736
If you want to go down this road then I am willing to help out with advice.
Cheers,
Robert
Hello, I am not sure if I will restore them or not? But thanks for the advice and links to the info. I do see you use evaporust, I have some questions on this, I want something that will take the rust off of items but not harm the original paint that is still present. Would this work for this, I have some M24 grenades that have rust on the cans but a lot of the original paint and markings are still there and I don't want to lose that.
BOUGAINVILLE
Well-Known Member
Hi,
I have found evaporust is excellent with the added advantage that is is PH neutral. With paint, if left in over a long period it will soften and lift it, especially if it is a thin coating as for example on a tin. I have found though that if constantly monitored regularly by the hour or thereabouts, then if only light rust, you should be able to have the rust removed while keeping the paint unaffected. Just to be sure and as "a peace of mind" just try it first on something that doesn't matter as a test run before treating your grenade cans. It will remove blueing absolutely.
The cleaned rust free metal needs to be treated immediately after it has been dried in order to prevent any recurrence of rust.
.
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