Before and after

[Kilroy was Here]

obviously there are two sorts of Evapo-Rust in circulation: one produced by Daubert Cromwell / Alsip, Illinois (as I got it over here) and the other by Harris International Labs Inc. /Springdale, Arizona (as offered in the classifieds) :hmmmm2:

This is called American capitalism Peter.
Commercial, Industrial-- Military-Gov't-- and Retail sales gimmicks........
They're all the same products, and [SIZE=-1]work through selective chelation.[/SIZE] :tinysmile_twink_t2:

 

[Kilroy was Here]

Rust- Aid

Miguel, that M24 can looks great already, I agree with the others, I would not use the evapo rust on it.

I did not have time today to buy and try the evapo-rust, but after some thought, I would not use it on anything that has paint. I'm the type of person that will kick myself in the ass for years, if not the rest of my life for ruining something that was perfectly fine to begin with.

I am sure if the evapo rust gets "under" the paint as I said, it WILL remove the rust "under" the paint.....but then the paint will not have anything to "adhere to" and be removed. I think evapo-rust should be used only on bare metal or if you do not care about the remaining paint.

Here's before and after pics of a RGD-33 I used something called "Rust Aid" on. The main ingredient in it is Oxalic acid and it also has hydroflouric acid in it. It is $2.50 a bottle at the famous Wal-mart stores.

I heated it to about 110-120F and used it on this RGD-33 and a few other items with fairly good results. It did not affect the ink/paint stencil. When I'm finished, I rinse really good with clean water, dry with a towel, and then oil the grenade with a good oil like break free or tri-flow.

 

[Endel]

Very good results, nice grenades. And thank you for sharing them.

Hi iam looking for some advice how to clean this 25 pounder case , what strength solution ? and how to avoid damaging paper labels on the inside .Any help,suggestions welcome regards Dave

As Steve said, Oxalic is best for painted objects that you want to save the paint, i agree with it. On this case, the first problem is oiled surface. You must remove that layer with oil remover (be careful with it, it must be "friendly" for the paint) make a test on a small area.
Acid solution 8-10 percent warm solution is okay and soak time depends, maybe 30 min maybe more. You can repeat that with a new solution. After that wash it out with cold water, it harden the paint again and then possible to brush it over.
My way to save the labels, if it is possible i remove the label with scalpel, if not, i leave it and wash it very carefully, i haven`t seen no damages by the solution. I am not sure what will happen after the years, maybe it is irresponsible.

So, reply for Miguel, I have no experience with the Evapo Rust. Seems like its magical... I couldn`t find any sellers in my region. I would be happy to see some restoration projects here.

Best
E

 

[butterfly]

.... I am not sure what will happen after the years, maybe it is irresponsible.

Endel,

I think you make a good point here and one for anyone to consider before attempting any form of restoration!!
Thanks for raising this.

great restorations by the way!!!

regards Kev

 

[Endel]

One wooden box.

E

 

[Endel]

I have lost one post here before the last one, small confusion now. Is it possible to do it myself?

Thanks
E

 

[Kilroy was Here]

Very good results, nice grenades. And thank you for sharing them. E

Hi Endel, thanks, I thought maybe others would like to see what the "Rust-Aid" liquid could do. It worked very well indeed on my RGD-33. It's also cheap and very easy to use. But you have to also be careful as with any chemicals. I think Oxalic might damage some items if left in the liquid too long.

 

[Endel]

Hi all,

small refreshment in this thread. All items are cleaned with an acid.

Regards
E

 

[Grenademan2005]

What kind of acid? It doesnt attack to the paint.

 

[Tmine35]

What kind of acid? It doesnt attack to the paint.

I use oxalic acid, it treats paint like this.

 

[Endel]

I have posted some pictures already, but i must to nail down that bomb theme.
About that bombs, I don`t have any knowledge to id all bombs , so one thread is here http://www.bocn.co.uk/vbforum/threads/77266-Russian-bomb-ID?p=173094#post173094

Interesting for me, seems like that bombs have been empty for a long time, seems like they aren`t filled at all, rusty surface all in the body. The seller said, it is a find near from WW2 airfield.


Regards
Endel

 

[Grenademan2005]

Nice bombs. Maybe they were emptied long time ago.

 

[Endel]

Nice bombs. Maybe they were emptied long time ago.

It is possible. My fist thought was, that filler has been burned out, but no, after the restoration i saw the original paint on the surface.

Screwed fuzes are common after the war but emtied ammunition... if there has been some ammonite, maybe it used as fertiliser.

Regards
E

 

[Grenademan2005]

It is possible. My fist thought was, that filler has been burned out, but no, after the restoration i saw the original paint on the surface.

Screwed fuzes are common after the war but emtied ammunition... if there has been some ammonite, maybe it used as fertiliser.

Regards
E

Really? Good potatoes will get!!!

 

[Endel]

Here is a restorated 7,3 cm propaganda rocket (Propagandageschoss 41). Showed leaflets are up for grabs.

Best
E

 

[Endel]

Hi,

small progress again. My old 105 mm HL German beauty has got a new look.

Regards
E

 

[Endel]

One of my favorite box for the 5 cm german mines. Usually those are emptied and without the supporting racks.

E

 

[super7]

Hard to believe the before and after are the same items. Great result!

Regards, Jan

http://www.westernfront.nl

 

[Endel]

Here are some of peaces of an exploded 10 cm Nb.W 40 containers after 65 years, where were cases still inside.

Restored with solution of oxalic acid and cases are cleaned with ammonia.

Best
E

 

[Endel]

German tent warmer got a new look.