Latest Purchase Of Mills

[Darren]

I recieved these 5 Mills grenades through the post a couple of days ago. I do not know much about grenades so would like to know more. They all have No36 base plugs but as you can see the one on the far left looks a little different to the others in shape around the top area? Is this not a 36?

All have different stamps on them so would be interested in finding out more about makers etc.

Thanks,
Darren

 

[gothica7]

Hi Darren,

they are all pretty nice no 36s, including the one on the left. It has swept forward lugs, a design favoured by a few makers, most commonly being JPS, Josiah Parkes & Sons, Willenhall, Staffs. A lot of people think that this is a Mk2 gren body but all that makes a gren a Mk 2 is the Mk2 base plug.
Let me have some makers names either from the bodies or the base plugs and i will try to give you some info. Nice grens.

Andy

 

[Darren]

Thanks Andy for the comments and information. Yes i am pretty happy with these as all are complete and appear to be original parts.

All strip down apart from on all of them i cannot unscrew the centre part inside? any reccomended tool, method?

When they all arrived they were covered pretty thick with what looked like WD40 or similar, i am wanting to give them a good clean and was thinking just warm soapy water? i do not want to loose any of the original paint?

After i was thinking some kind of wax to protect and add a little shine, I have read here that beeswax is ideal, can you reccomend exactlly what i would need to buy?

I will upload some close up photos in a while and provide some of the details.

Thanks,
Darren

 

[Darren]

From left to right:

1. Body stamped JPS
2. Body stamped M
3. Body stamped K
4. Body stamped JP & S10 (i think it is 10)
5. Body stamped either CC or GG ?

Thanks,
Darren

 

[gothica7]

Hi Darren,

one word of advice, if you cannot get the filler screw out with ease, dont bother as the zinc alloy is soft and you will probably ruin it.
Again, you dont need to remove the centre tube but i will do some pics shortly of the tools i have had made that do the job. You may be able to or get a mate to make one as i did.
A good wash in soapy water will get a lot of the oil and muck off. I have often been suprised how much better they often look after a good clean. May be worth cleaning the striker and spring well too, i often put a little vaseline on it to stop it sticking.

Beeswax polish will certainly help stop the old rustworm. Needs to be applied and then a good brushing will be needed, usually 3 or 4 times with a good shoe polish brush, at least thats what i use. Silicone polish will also do the same job, just prefer the natural stuff.

Look forwards to seeing pics of the base plugs, will do the centre tube removal tools shortly.

Andy

 

[gothica7]

1. Body stamped JPS
2. Body stamped M
3. Body stamped K
4. Body stamped JP & S10 (i think it is 10)
5. Body stamped either CC or GG ?

Hi Darren

1 and 4 JP&S as mentioned before.
2 could be Morum & Co but i think they had ceased trading by WW2 so may be someone else, maybe Montreal Munitions, Canada.
3 will be A. Kenricks & Sons Ltd, West Bromwich.
5 will be Carron Company, Falkirk, Scotland.

They may or may not have corresponding base plugs and sometimes the levers are marked as well.

Andy

 

[Darren]

1. Body stamped JPS
2. Body stamped M
3. Body stamped K
4. Body stamped JP & S10 (i think it is 10)
5. Body stamped either CC or GG ?

Hi Darren

1 and 4 JP&S as mentioned before.
2 could be Morum & Co but i think they had ceased trading by WW2 so may be someone else, maybe Montreal Munitions, Canada.
3 will be A. Kenricks & Sons Ltd, West Bromwich.
5 will be Carron Company, Falkirk, Scotland.

They may or may not have corresponding base plugs and sometimes the levers are marked as well.

Andy

Thanks for the i.ds, thats a great help.

Levers are stamped again from left to right, appears that they could do with swapping around to match some of them up:

1. S.G & Co
2. K
3. S.G & Co
4. JP & S
5. No stamp unles it is under the rust (will clean)

Thanks,
Darren

 

[gothica7]

Here are a couple of pics of my homemade cetre tube and base plug removal tools.

There are occasionally proper tools available on SA or feebay but these can be pricey.

Andy

 

[Darren]

Again with the base plugs not all match the body's, photos show all details, from left to right:

 

[gothica7]

Hi again bud,

dont know SG & Co, maybe a forum expert may be able to help here, the others i have already mentioned.
Andy

 

[Darren]

Here are a couple of pics of my homemade cetre tube and base plug removal tools.

There are occasionally proper tools available on SA or feebay but these can be pricey.

Andy

They look just the job, I will see if i can have something made similar. If i can unscrew and remove the inners it will be a bonus.

Ive not really any need to remove the centres apart from i wanted to give a really good clean inside as there looks to be a lot of greasy crap, i also thought that with removing them i would beable to get them nice and dry easily before they rust anymore inside. Maybe a good shake up with warm soapy water inside as are and a hairdryer to dry quickly?

Thanks,
Darren

 

[gothica7]

The first base plug was made by Thomas Adshead & Sons, Dudley, Worcestershire, the 2nd too corroded to tell, the rest you now know.

I stick all my wet grens on the Rayburn as its permanently hot but a hairdryer would work well and it maybe an idea to replace the corroded base plug in time.

Andy

 

[Darren]

The first base plug was made by Thomas Adshead & Sons, Dudley, Worcestershire, the 2nd too corroded to tell, the rest you now know.

I stick all my wet grens on the Rayburn as its permanently hot but a hairdryer would work well and it maybe an idea to replace the corroded base plug in time.

Andy

Thanks for all of your help and advice Andy, its been a great help and im looking foward to cleaning these up a little later. i will be on the look out for a better base plug on the second grenade and a filler screw as that one is damaged a little too.

Regarding the beeswax polish, can any beeswax furniture polish be used or can you reccomend a particular one and where to buy?

Thanks,
Darren

 

[gothica7]

Hi Darren,

been advised by another forum member[thanks Norman] that the 'M' on one of your gren bodies could have been produced by Musgrave & Co Ltd, Belfast during WW2.

I get my polish from the Bees and Honey tent [something ime involved with] at the South of England Show but any supermarket or hardware store should be able to help you. Any type will do, probably need a good brush too.

Good luck with the grens and as for parts, they come up often on both SA and feebay.
Andy

 

[V40]

Request of information for a Mills Bomb...

I've owned this grenade for years and was wondering if it is "rare" or a fake?

On the bottom plug it has the following: No36M MKF 43

On the inside portion where the fuze goes in, it is the following: 4Z 1943

It also has, barley marked "X's" all the way around (It looks that way). There is also a green band around the , near the bottom of the grenade. It is brown in color with what appears to be shellac on everything.

Also the spoon is marked "M".

Over all, it looks to be in Fair to Good condition.


Mark,
(Probably should of used the "SEARCH Button first, My apoligies guys!)

 

[Darren]

I've owned this grenade for years and was wondering if it is "rare" or a fake?

On the bottom plug it has the following: No36M MKF 43

On the inside portion where the fuze goes in, it is the following: 4Z 1943

It also has, barley marked "X's" all the way around (It looks that way). There is also a green band around the , near the bottom of the grenade. It is brown in color with what appears to be shellac on everything.

Also the spoon is marked "M".


Mark,
(Probably should of used the "SEARCH Button first, My apoligies guys!)

Hi Mark,

Nice grenade, looks to be in pretty good condition.

Doesnt look fake to me it looks like the real deal, i wouldnt have thought it would be that rare either as there are many many grenades available.

Im sure the grenade experts could tell you for sure as i am pretty new to grenade collecting.

Darren

 

[gothica7]

Hi Mark,

looks good to me. Its a genuine No 36 Mk 1 from WW2, produced in 1943. Z stands for zinc by the way and with all that info on the centre tube and the base plug, no one would waste time faking that so you have the 'genuine' article. Not sure who made it, either Musgrave Ltd or Montreal Munitions but a nice gren to have.
The red crosses tell you it was once a live gren and the green band indicates it was probably filled with amatol or baratol.

Dont do anything to preserve it other than a coat of beeswax polish.

Best wishes bud.

Andy

 

[pointblank0]

Yeah lovely grenade. It makes them to have a bit of original paint on them, perfect. The pin and ring are replacements though, but these do pop up now and then. I'm sure a collector on here could probably help you out here. I would but I am in need of a couple to replace some repros in my collection.

 

[paul the grenade]

I would say it is a canadian mills as they put their red crosses on the second row down where british ones had the crosses on the top row.
Cheers, paul.

 

[gothica7]

Hi again Mark,

i wouldnt say that the ringpull and pin are necessarily replacements as i have several WW2 grens with a similar type. All have a patina of age and look well worn and are on Drill grens. Ile ask my mate Tom to confirm if this type was used during WW2. I suspect it was.

Andy