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17 Pounder AP-T Shot

P

peregrinvs

Well-Known Member
Wish me luck, I think I'm going to need it...:tinysmile_hmm_t2:

17PR AP-T - pre-clean (1).JPG17PR AP-T - pre-clean (2).JPG17PR AP-T - pre-clean (3).JPG17PR AP-T - pre-clean (4).JPG

Somewhat of an impulse web buy and I didn't realise from the indifferent pictures on my smartphone just how much metal was missing from the gap between the drive band grooves. I can make faux drive bands from copper painted rubber strip, but building up the missing metal and getting it the right shape is going to be a tricky job without the aid of a large lathe. I have a couple of ideas, but would welcome any further suggestions. Why buy such a wreck? = Loose 17 Pounder AP projectiles seem to have dried up in the wild. (Anyone got one for sale..?:tinysmile_grin_t:)

I'm going to initially clean it back to bare metal and then take a policy decision on whether I think I can do a reasonable job restoring it. If not, I shall probably sell it on as a novelty doorstop to a Sherman Firefly fan or suchlike. :tinysmile_twink_t2:
 
looks like a lot of rust removing, anti rust treating then P38 car body filler is how I would tackle it, how to get it round afterwards is best on a lathe but rolling up a sheet of sandpaper around the shot will give a fairly round finish with care. There were some better ones around that still need some work at the last ECRA meet if I remember correctly.
 
2pounder said:
looks like a lot of rust removing, anti rust treating then P38 car body filler is how I would tackle it, how to get it round afterwards is best on a lathe but rolling up a sheet of sandpaper around the shot will give a fairly round finish with care. There were some better ones around that still need some work at the last ECRA meet if I remember correctly.
Click to expand...

Thanks. That’s a good idea.

Unfortunately this is looking like a failed gamble. As the rust comes off, it looks like the missing metal was smashed off on impact rather than corroded and part of the remaining ridge between the drive bands is distorted. I therefore regretfully conclude that it’s probably a bit too far gone to restore. I shall finish cleaning it and then move it on at some point. Ah well. Win some, lose some.
 
Postscript...

In the end I failed to resist the temptation to do something with it and here are the results. I decided the lower section was a right-off, so I haven't done anymore than fabricate some faux drive bands made of copper painted rubber strip.

(Yes I know they're too thick and the profile is wrong - so sue me.:tinysmile_hmm_t: They're just there to fill the space and enable it to sit correctly in a case)

Once again I've used the entirely inauthentic but relatively idiot proof reverse masking method for the markings. The slightly dodgy 'eyebrows' on the tracer symbol are quarter sections of an 'O'.

I'm hoping to pass this on to a friend with a couple of empty 17pr cases. All being well I shall be acquiring a couple of better fired examples in the near future, so this has kind of been a trial run.

Cheers,
Mark
17PR AP-T - restoration (1).JPG17PR AP-T - restoration (2).JPG17PR AP-T - restoration (3).JPG17PR AP-T - restoration (4).JPG17PR AP-T - restoration (5).JPG17PR AP-T - restoration (6).JPG17PR AP-T - restoration (8).JPG17PR AP-T - restoration (7).JPG

PS. I don't suppose anyone going to Stoneleigh on Sunday has a spare 17pr case for sale..?
 
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