17A Restoration 2

[satan18]

On with the stripping and now trying to get the top unscrewed.
I tried freezing it to -50 with no joy then tried heating to near
melting point but still no give,then i tried my two snap on oil
filter removal bands with still no luck.
So s"""t or bust i got two pairs of 18" stillsons and without putting
anything on the jaws got a perfect bite and had to lean on them
to get any movement,whether i was posest at the time but risking
killing a 17 fuse they finally undid and with only light bite marks
which have now polished out.
Now the Easy bit Ha ha,removing the two screws which hold
the plastic collar in place,above the clocks.
They came out easy but still cannot get the clock body to shift
from the outer casing,so more heat and more soaking,and more
Freezing,as they are coming out as i have them booked in for
cleaning and overhaul with my watch maker friend very soon.
Many thanks to Fuzeman who was with me through this stage
of the take down.

 

[Tmine35]

Well done, and with good luck. Aluminium is the worst material if threads stuck. I once had an artillery shell with a beautiful Kl.A.Z.23 fuze. The fuze turned in and out totally free by hand. One day when I had sold it I had to unscrew the fuze for shipping. It turned out 2 turns and stucked then - didn't turn in or out. I had to use heavy tools to get the fuze out and finally all threads were totally destroyed. Had to clean the shell properly and give another fuze from my own collection to the buyer :tinysmile_angry_t:

 

[satan18]

Well done, and with good luck. Aluminium is the worst material if threads stuck. I once had an artillery shell with a beautiful Kl.A.Z.23 fuze. The fuze turned in and out totally free by hand. One day when I had sold it I had to unscrew the fuze for shipping. It turned out 2 turns and stucked then - didn't turn in or out. I had to use heavy tools to get the fuze out and finally all threads were totally destroyed. Had to clean the shell properly and give another fuze from my own collection to the buyer :tinysmile_angry_t:

Thanks Tmine
Hopefully my ambition to get the clocks ticking again and
restore outer casings.

Best Satan

 

[Tmine35]

For restoring aluminium surfaces I found an epoxy filler with very fine aluminium powder to be mixed in. When adding enough of the aluminium powder it gives rather authentic looking surface.
Attached pictures show a nose of 28/20 Gerlich bullet cast of this material. This was my first test and I didn't yet use enough aluminium, with more the color becomes better.

 

[satan18]

Hi Reino

Thanks for that and looks like you have good results with your
project.

I will experiment and have had good results with Liquid metal
filler,then sprayed with Enamel alluminium paint.

Because the paint looks shiny when dry,i rub it over with 1000 grade
scotch and that looks quite good.

Best phil

 

[waffenamt]

Hi Phil,yet another top thread ive missed whilst out on calls!:tinysmile_angry_t:

I must say that it was nigh on impossible to free one of my 17A clocks,so i ended up chopping off the case and thats what i sent you amongst the `project` parcel.:tinysmile_twink_t:

Good luck with it and keep us posted.

best
waff

 

[satan18]

Hi Paul

Welcome back on mate,

I am sorta going between SD2 and 17 work hear, but you know what its like when you start something especialy when the clocks are staring at me.

Heir Ruhleman has a lot to answer for

Best phil

 

[waffenamt]

No worries old chap!

A bit like me when i keep saying i will clean some of my collection and then something else crops up etc,etc! :bigsmile:

As and when with the SD`s mate as im very interested with your clocks.I have a minty set but ive always wondered what was on the end were the gaine attached?
Is it safe to wind these clocks up?

cheers

waff

 

[Fuzeman]

Hi Paul
Its safe to wind up but can be a bit fidly , you need to make sure that the clock has not been a sleeper in that i mean the small pin isnt still through the gear,this pin on the fuze firing melts the wax holding it which then drops through, allowing the mechanism to start running

 

[waffenamt]

Cheers Steve,

What is this bit in the centre of my minty ones please?
I dont want to wind them up and set fire to the cat on the windowsill or similar horror shows!:bigsmile:

cheers

waff

 

[Fuzeman]

Hi Paul
Looking through the slot at the clock mechanism you should see the hair spring wheel if it dosnt move when lightly shave it maybe the pin is still stopping it from unwinding?

 

[waffenamt]

Thanks Steve,
I will have a gander in daylight.

best

waff

 

[Fuzeman]

Hi Paul
The centre of the fuze clock is the setting ring , the clock key goes onto this and by rotating it sets the time. the setting tool is rarer than the fuzes .
steve

 

[waffenamt]

Ah!,I see now.

I thought it might have been a nasty to spark up the gaine when it was attached and in operation?

cheers

waff

 

[waffenamt]

After carefully mauling around with the fuze clock this morning,here revealed is a small wonder!

You can see a small `w` on one side of the clock and some other stamps that look like `b` and C 1 1.
Also present are the letters and numbers 3 8 8 1.
Lovely item that is going to my pals watch shop on Monday.
I need to know any hidden dangers though before it gets cleaned and wound up?

cheers

waff

 

[waffenamt]

More from a different angle...

 

[Fuzeman]

(17) clock mechanism

Here is an original drawing of the type (17) fuze its a bit feight due to being encapsulated in plastic

 

[Fuzeman]

Clock out of its case showing the firing pin
Picture 1 shows the firing pin actually having fired
Picture 2 shows the other side of the clock with the recess for the No 28 Detonator would sit
Picture 3 shows the side view of the mechanism

 

[waffenamt]

Thanks Steve,
I just undone mine from the case and found some beautiful ink stamps!

cheers

waff

 

[waffenamt]

Im absolutely sure that my pal can get this working.

It can be seen on this unit that there is no number 26 det present...