Correct colour codes please?

[waffenamt]

Hi Gents,
I have ongoing restorations and i need a written list of colour codes please for me to print off and take to the mixers.

I have an almost finished practice Incendiary which was originally red with the standard green tailfins.Once sorted with the correct red then its off to be stencilled.
What shade of red and green codes needed?. Next up are a couple of SD2 charges to be painted,again the correct coluor of green needed as i have a beautiful set of early wings to complete another unit.

cheers

waff

 

[butterfly]

I have a code for the Grey/Green paint used its RAL6006 (Dulux Paintshop code 84YY07045) I opted for satin finish.

Now this is close but not a spot on colour for the SD2's. I dont know if anyone has anything better?

(for reference see this thread

SD2 cut

A couple of months ago I made my first attempt at a cutaway on a type 41 fuze, having been inspired by members on this site. The initial cut, when blade met fuze was one of the hardest decisions to make, however, once I got started I really got into it and the finished fuze now stands proudly in...

www.bocn.co.uk

the wings are original, the body repainted using the above code.....you can see the difference if you look closely, its almost impossible to match exactly.............good luck!!!)

I would also like to know the code for the yellow colour they used, as I have seen various shades on pieces and am not too sure the original shade produced. I imagine the colour changes with time. So if anyone out there can help with this one I would appreciate it.

Look forward to seeing your new set waff .......sound good ones!!

regards Kev

 

[waffenamt]

Thanks Kev, 'preciate the post.

Now im told that there maybe a satin/matt mix will do the job? As for getting the colour spot on,i doubt it will ever be replicated as the items are now 70 years old so fading/ageing has to be considered.
As for your question regarding the yellow,my buddy Phil restored an SD2 for me in yellow and all it needs is a light rub with very,very fine sandpaper or similar to 'down' the colour a bit. Not sure what the mix was but im sure he will let you know.
I have to restore an early charge and then i can marry up the nice wings and the lovely freebie arming wire.

cheers

waff

 

[butterfly]

I think if there was a satin/matt mix that would certainly be better, but not heard of it myself. I'm not sure if the satin would tone down with a matt varnish, but reluctant to do that as varnish may 'yellow' over time. I'm not too knowledgeable on paints......the code was from an old BOCN post, but not sure where, I wrote the code down. Matt certainly would be too flat, and satin gives a little too much sheen, so possibly a combination might work??

I look forward to see how you get on.

Re wings......nice result with freebie arming wire too!!!

thanks for info on the yellow wings, over to you Phil.......??

regards Kev

 

[kahu1]

Hi ,

I've found for matting down gloss/satin paint scotch pads are good,not the green ones, but grey-ultra fine.
A bit of elbow grease and you'll find a nice ,slightly worn finish(takes a bit of paint off the edges)
Also an abrasive bathroom cleaner (Jif) can be used.
I also make sure the paint has dried hard ,so try and leave for a few weeks before the rub down.

cheers,
Bob

 

[waffenamt]

Good tips there Bob,thank you.

best

waff

 

[waffenamt]

...plus a code for the yellow used by the Luftwaffe if poss please fellas.

best

waff

 

[Tmine35]

I think this has been discussed already in the past here, but I have experienced it's very difficult to get correct mixing codes for most German WW2 color tones. Also the few old Luftwaffe RAL-codes are no longer recongized in modern mixing machines. I have a few times taken a good original paint sample to paint shop analyzer, it gives a code but when paint is mixed the tone is far away from original sample.
The reason is, I think, that the old color tones were based in a different mixing philosophy which modern philosophy does not understand. I call these old tones "dirty" and new tones "clean".
I think the only way to get a correct code is mix the color by hand measuring all pigment quantities carefully. Someone has done this as excellent color tones are available, for example from K.P. Emig in Germany. However I don't think those who have done the job are willing to tell the codes outside.
In the past I once mixed field grey using standard tones from tone chart being were very close to original, but from 2 different basic tone lines. Both vere "clean" tones but after mixing them together by hand result was "dirty" and quite authentic.

 

[waffenamt]

Thanks Reino,
Thats very well explained. Its tough to replicate that 'old' look on some restorations i imagine?

cheers

waff

 

[Tmine35]

Forgot to mention that there is no "one and only" correct German fiield grey or desert tan - or any other color tone. We may forget that sunlight and ageing change the color tones but as the colors were mixed by hand at several plants there are small variations. Once in the past my mate showed me about 20 MG belt cans in original field grey color, when comparing the tone inside the cans which had preserved more or less original we saw that they all were slightly different - from very light to very dark. However common to all tones was that they were "dirty" the same way.