GP 100 pound ANM-30 restoration

[DEADLINE222]

Here is the lot I purchased consisting of two ANM-30s and a AN-M57. Not pictured; I also received another AN-M30 casing that was split in half by a low order.

This picture was taken at the location of the auction. It was in a dark, abandoned warehouse full of militaria.

Based on the small remnants of black painted stripes left on the casings, I assume they were drill bombs.



This casing was manufactured in 1942 by National Tube. It was filled with some sort of orange, rocky dirt and clay.

This casing was metal spun and was very smooth and in good condition with the exception of the three large holes I had to removed and refill with metal.

I made the holes much bigger to extract the dirt.

Interestingly, although this casing has A1 features, it is stamped "ANM-30".



This casing had no holes when I received it, but I did remove a panel to remove the plaster filling.

This casing is unmarked with the exception of stamped information regarding to the modification into a drill bomb "Inert Plaster Filled" on the ogive.

This casing had very lager amounts of deep pitting.



One of the casing after three applications of Bondo.



Sanded and primed.



Although the fin is improper, if you don't find this shape sexy, then you need to check your pulse.

 

[DEADLINE222]

Here is the low order casing. It was made in 1945, and is stamped as A1.

I plan to cut it up as a grid and restore it as new.

 

[HAZORD]

I'm puzzled as to why you didn't remove the tail plug so you could empty the bodies through that hole? Also, maybe its an optical illusion, but it the tail fin too large for the bomb?

 

[DEADLINE222]

In short, I did not have the proper tools available.

The casing pictured with the two holes had unserviceable rust that extending well beyond the openings that had to be cut out and replaced. Doing so allowed immediate and easy access to the dirt. I had it all out of there in a matter of minutes.

Proper tools or not, I find it easier to cut a large hole in the side or cut the casing in two halves rather than rely on the limited access through the tail fin hole. I simply weld the plate back on when I am done. All of my casings have been in rough shape. I cannot imagine the difficulty I would experience trying to unscrew the baseplate, especially with possibility the anti-withdraw pins protruding into the inert filler.

That is an AN-M103 box fin assembly that has been modified for a drag plate when used with the M120 photoflash bomb.