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Grenade Restoration

C

Correus

Active Member
Hello Everyone!!!

I recieved a couple grenades today that need some TLC. One is a British No. 15 "Ball Grenade" and the other is a German M1917 Rifle Grenade. Both are in relic condition but look good. Unfortunatly the metal nub on the No. 15 is rusted to just about nothing.

I've never attempted to clean up and/or restor a grenade - how would you all recomend the rust and grime be removed? I have used vinegar on old Land Rover parts, such as bolts/nuts/screw/etc., and it works but I thought I'd see what you all do.

Thanks!
 
Ive cleaned up several grenades that were in relic condition with some success. If you could post some pictures of yours to get an idea of what condition there in i may be able to give you some tips. Cheers Mick.
 
Here you go!

If you look at the last picture of the No.15 you will see it might still have some of the original paint still on it - just not sure.

No.15 a.jpgNo15 c.jpgNo15d.jpgNo15e.jpgNo15f.jpgM1917 RG a.jpgM1917 RG b.jpgM1917 RG c.jpg
 
Hi . Are you sure the no15 is inert /empty . .the green round the plug might have indicated it still has its copper tube intact and may be still live .
regards .Darrol.
 
Yup - it's empty. The green residue is the remains of the acid used to make the Ammonal inert. It does contain trace amounts of it in the residue. The copper tube is gone.
 
how far do you want to restore the grenade ?.a round headed screw would make a good replacement lug .i find an old copper coin is good at removing some rust.
 
Well - I'm mainly just wanting to get the rust off and keep it from rusting more and keep the paint in tackt (if that's possible). I'm planning on getting a better example so that I can have one in "relic" condition and "good" condition.

Is the copper penny thing part of the electrolysis thing?
 
theres a post on the site somewhere about using oxalic acid to clean up items without doing to much damage to existing paint work.
cheers, paul.
 
Thanks! I'll look for it. I did find out that plane ol' vinegar will remove the rust and leave the paint alone. You do have to soak it for about 24 hours though.
 
On the mills grenades ive cleaned up i used a good old fashioned wire brush and then applied black shoe polish. It gives a nice finish and stops the rust coming back however this will be no good when trying to save the paint. Cheers Mick.
 
Well...I'm not to sure if that stuff on the grenade is paint... It's hard to explain but it get's tacky when wet with even water. Not tacky tacky but more of a soft tack - kind of feels like a wet eraser - if that makes any sense.

Also - I know some of you will cringe at this, but if you scrape a blade over a section that is cover with rust it sort of peels!!! I'm not talking about the section I thought was paint!!!! It's almost like scraping graphite!

Do any of you have any clue if these grenades were coated in something before painting them? Something that would have evened the surface out perhaps?
 
[QUOTE

Is the copper penny thing part of the electrolysis thing?[/QUOTE


hi .the penny is made of copper and is good for removing surface rust without harming steel and iron . .but it sounds like the iron casting is weakening .i found that the grenade body on dug examples has soft and hard iron depending on which part was worse coroded on the same body.id try an avoid any more acid making contact .
Does sound strange the state your grenade is in .
Regards.Darrol.
 
I have had good luck with evaporust (available in auto parts shops, hardware stores here in the US) Does a nice job removing rust without affecting paint
 
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