Restoring projectiles

[shooter1992]

I am sure this has probably been done to death, but I didnt have much searching. I am just wondering how do people stencil repainted projectiles? I am currently repainting a 25pdr star shell and am looking to restencil it as well as you would be well aware. I have the markings ready to go, but I was just wondering as to the best method. I was thinking of printing a sticky label, carefully cut the wording out and the apply to the area. Painting is obviously the next issue and would need to be carefully applied to stop any running. Are there any other suggestions?

Also what font do you generally use?

Thanks for any assistance!

 

[raymeketa]

Many projectile markings were not stenciled. Instead they were stamped with a big rubber stamp. Only a few collectors have spent the money to buy the materials necessary to make a stamp but, instead, look for other ways to apply the markings. They have been discussed several times on the forums and you should be able to find the threads with a search, maybe under "restorations"?

For the projectiles that were actually stenciled, there are several ways to go about making a stencil. Again, they have been discussed before. Your idea sounds as good as any.

As to the correct font style, size and color, an original projectile is your best guide. Perhaps someone on the forum can advise you on the 25 Pdr.

Good Luck

Ray

 

[BOUGAINVILLE]

I just found a photo with the correct markings and printed it out 1:1 scale. Our I would research the correct font and size and type it out in Word then print. Using a Stanley Knife I would then carefully cut out a stencil.

This stencil is place over the projectile, secured by tape and with the exposed areas of projectile masked by newspaper I would then just press the spray can to get a whisk of spray on the newspaper and then carefully move it across the stencil.

This gave me good results.

 

[kahu1]

I used to use a spray can , but found a lot of bleed under the stencil,particularly on angled curves.
The stamping technique was generally achieved by rolling the projectile over the stamp,not stamping the projectile.

Have tried almost a 'dry brushing' technique,that gave more predictable and controllable results.
Basically ,tape your stencil onto the projectile,and with a cut down paint brush(the artist type) dip in the paint ,and dap/tap/wipe most of the paint off until the brush is almost dry.
Then stipple over the stencil.If not enough colour you can do again.
Practice on something else first though,to get an idea of the process.

 

[ydnum303]

I have always found the way that BOCN member Rickoshea suggested to be the best. Having cut your stencil, and applied it to the appropriate part of the projectile, put a small quantity of the paint you intend to use in a small tin lid or similar, and wait for about 10 to 20 minutes to allow it to become tacky, then with a piece of good quality foam rubber dip gently in the paint, so that there is a small amount of paint on the foam, then dab lightly over the letters of the stencil. To build up a good result, you will probably have to go over it several times. If you look at pictures posted by Rickoshea on this forum, you will see what good results he gets. Good Luck! Roger

 

[2pounder]

see if you can get a look at an origonal set of markings, o0nes in books are always neat, ones on shell can be pretty poor, so long as they were legible it was good enough and methods changed with time and country. Note stencils have bars joining the inner to outer of the letter, stamps dont drawings dont but maybe should have. But practice whatever you decide on a piece of pipe about the right size or a ''spare'' shell.

 

[shooter1992]

Thanks for the information. I have begun the process and so far have painted the black to begin. It has pained up extremely well and the next step will be to paint the red band at the top. Below is an image of how it is going, along with the final stencilling I hope to achieve.



Cheers,
Matthew

 

[Dronic69]

see if you can get a look at an origonal set of markings, o0nes in books are always neat, ones on shell can be pretty poor, so long as they were legible it was good enough and methods changed with time and country. Note stencils have bars joining the inner to outer of the letter, stamps dont drawings dont but maybe should have. But practice whatever you decide on a piece of pipe about the right size or a ''spare'' shell.

Well stated 2pdr!

In the end of the day, ordnance had only one purpose in life, so you are not going to find original painted projectiles with Michelangelo's artwork on them are we now?

I picked up the following yesterday - a Bofor's shipping container and a No 199, 1943 dated fuse cover(s).

Note the quality of the stenciling on both, especially the shipping container - as 2pdr mentioned - legible enough to read clearly, but I wouldn't say any delicated time spent on it - you can see there's a number of examples where the paint had run under the stenciling.................

In the old days, a company called "Letroset" produced a catalog of different font sizes and styles, good enough IMO to stencil onto projectiles and produced an A+ result without messing with paint. I believe they still exits, although the product line may have been reduced down.

I spent too many years trying to restore projectiles and cases................I would prefer to spend the extra money, buy a better quality example, and free up my precise time these days!

Perhaps that's why I just collect fuzes now....................................:tinysmile_twink_t2:

Cheers
Drew

 

[kahu1]

And thats for new items.
When/if they are repainted,its often a very boring job and the results can be barely regulation.

 

[dano1917]

see if you can get a look at an origonal set of markings, o0nes in books are always neat, ones on shell can be pretty poor, so long as they were legible it was good enough and methods changed with time and country. Note stencils have bars joining the inner to outer of the letter, stamps dont drawings dont but maybe should have. But practice whatever you decide on a piece of pipe about the right size or a ''spare'' shell.

Good point 2pounder, perfect is not always best as factory methods varied. The people painting the ordnance probably had no clue that years latr someone would be trying to duplicate their work...Dano