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WW2 Luftwaffe SD2 Gaines
- Thread starter skull181
- Start date
Hi and yea they're extremely good, I compared the one you sent over to me with some originals. The main differences were the replica ones are made out of a lighter coloured plastic and the replica ones aren't finished quite as well as they could be on the base, they're slightly rough whereas a genuine one is shiny and smooth. I was surprised to see the markings on the inside, they were excellent.
Whoever makes these does a very good job (quite a few were for sale on specialist auctions recently), when they've been in collections for long enough they'll probably "become real" in years to come.:tinysmile_cry_t2:
Thanks.
Dave.
I will make a confession, its me who is the guilty one who actually make these gains and the plastic type gain for the 17 clockwork bomb fuze. The original ones are very expensive and i notice that originals are sectioned for display, which is a shame. So i made these so collectors can either section them or fill the gap in their collection until originals turn up. The bottoms which i have seen on originals do vary from a slight concave to a flat bottom. As these are cast from an original they are very difficult to do to get a neat finish on the bottom as this is the end i pour the plastic in. I then finish them off in a lathe, i suppose they could be polished a bit but not sure how to get good results, but this would be best to leave it in this finish so collectors can at least tell the difference to an original, which new collectors could get ripped off paying for a replica at original prices. The colour i eventually mastered, the one Skull181 has are near exact the Bakelite colour to the originals i have, the originals do vary slightly in colour to each other.
By the way i also make other replica bits that help fill the gaps of hard to come by originals until the original turns up, which i see no harm in doing as that certain piece could take years to find. Ben Fjordhouse was looking for a sticky bomb leaver. An original in good non relic condition will eventually turn up but it could take some time, even years to find a mint one but a good quality replica made to exact standards would fill the gap until an mint original is found, this all depends on the ethics of a collector.
I also make other things.
RM43 charges.
S-MiZ 44 igniters.
Keeper rings for the Pazerknacker.
rare 10kg charge.
ES.MiZ40 bracket and other plastic related bits
S-Mine bits top screw sets, late war, early war, Smine 35 and 44.
Shu mines and 200gm charges.
Pot mines and buckigniters etc.
As you see most items are really hard to find or are in a delicate state in their original condition ie Buck igniters etc. Reenactors or Living historians who display such items would rather get a replica damaged than the rare original. How many mine collectors who have original S-MiZ44 igniters screwed in the top of their original S-mine44, I only know of one person.
Personally i have no problem with copy parts, as originals get harder to come by but saying that 5000 MP44 assault rifles turn up in Syria not that long ago. To cap it all i hope i am doing a bit of a service to help collectors out like myself and many thanks for the comments on my wares.
By the way i also make other replica bits that help fill the gaps of hard to come by originals until the original turns up, which i see no harm in doing as that certain piece could take years to find. Ben Fjordhouse was looking for a sticky bomb leaver. An original in good non relic condition will eventually turn up but it could take some time, even years to find a mint one but a good quality replica made to exact standards would fill the gap until an mint original is found, this all depends on the ethics of a collector.
I also make other things.
RM43 charges.
S-MiZ 44 igniters.
Keeper rings for the Pazerknacker.
rare 10kg charge.
ES.MiZ40 bracket and other plastic related bits
S-Mine bits top screw sets, late war, early war, Smine 35 and 44.
Shu mines and 200gm charges.
Pot mines and buckigniters etc.
As you see most items are really hard to find or are in a delicate state in their original condition ie Buck igniters etc. Reenactors or Living historians who display such items would rather get a replica damaged than the rare original. How many mine collectors who have original S-MiZ44 igniters screwed in the top of their original S-mine44, I only know of one person.
Personally i have no problem with copy parts, as originals get harder to come by but saying that 5000 MP44 assault rifles turn up in Syria not that long ago. To cap it all i hope i am doing a bit of a service to help collectors out like myself and many thanks for the comments on my wares.
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butterfly
HONOURED MEMBER RIP
........and just to show how good these are, here is one I bought a while ago out of curiosity - photographed next to an original.
As you can see these are pretty good and as BMG50 has been kind enough to give an insight into these I wish to thank him.
On a personal note, I can see their use as a fill in or as a sectionable item, however in the sections I have done, I have been able to utilise an original item that was either damaged or badly cracked and so in a way preserving an original item which may otherwise have been disgarded. (but maybe I was just fortunate).
May I take the opportunity to ask why you choose to keep the markings on these, why not ommit them and have replica impressed in their place - this way it would be clear to everyone - especially in years to come that these are indeed replicas and not 'another type of variation of manufacture'. I personally think it ought to be the responsibility of manufacturers of replica parts to mark them as such...........my thoughts only, though would be interested to see what others think?
thanks for your post BMG50 - and excellent replica
regards Kev
I have nothing against replicas when they are completing a series where original item is missing, provided that they can be identified as replicas also later on. I have myself made some impossible-to-find regimental metal insignia for a few collectors.
Good work BMG50.
Good work BMG50.
Hi Lads thanks for the kind comments again. :tinysmile_grin_t: Why i keep the original markings is part of the casting process, unfortunately i would have to deface an original to do this. Marking them up as a replica, i would have to make a stamp mark in the material, can be done but i wonder what type of marking, maybe a letter R or something, but saying this some scrupulous dealer or trader in the future could remove the mark or deface it etc. I could cast them in a different colour than the Bakelite brown, but would that put people off?
As for Harry's question (not sure what the question is) but i make them and they are cast from an original and cast in a plastic resin from the mould, i usually sell them at 5 each compared to 30-40 each for an original.
I could cast the Bomb casing but it won't be hollow only the fuze section would be open but i would have to play around with one to find out. It would take alot of moulding material to make a mould and cast one but it can be done, trouble is is getting hold of the original to copy from as these Bomb casings and other gaine bits seem to be very hard and very expensive to get hold off. I had trouble finding the original metal bomb gaines, in the end i borrowed one. As for the SD2 bomb casing, nice to collect (if you have won the lottery) but the price for these bomb-let casings are through the roof.
Any other things that may be and idea to replicate?
As for Harry's question (not sure what the question is) but i make them and they are cast from an original and cast in a plastic resin from the mould, i usually sell them at 5 each compared to 30-40 each for an original.
I could cast the Bomb casing but it won't be hollow only the fuze section would be open but i would have to play around with one to find out. It would take alot of moulding material to make a mould and cast one but it can be done, trouble is is getting hold of the original to copy from as these Bomb casings and other gaine bits seem to be very hard and very expensive to get hold off. I had trouble finding the original metal bomb gaines, in the end i borrowed one. As for the SD2 bomb casing, nice to collect (if you have won the lottery) but the price for these bomb-let casings are through the roof.
Any other things that may be and idea to replicate?
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butterfly
HONOURED MEMBER RIP
Thankyou for your explination. I can see now why the markings remain and of course it wouldnt be in anyones interest to destroy or deface an original item. In the case of the gaine pots you are making there really isnt a problem as the material is an easy way to tell them apart. However one solution may be to insert a blank disc into the base of the item before you make the mould?? - as the markings are impressed into the material it would then be extremely difficult to reproduce at a later date. As I say not really an issue with these, you do a good job -well done.
I just want to add that my concern is only for the collectors of the future, replica items are getting so good now that in thirty years from now collecting will become a nightmare. Of course knowledge and experience is everything, but lets not make it easy for those unscrupulous dealers out there!!!....... in the end we will all pay the price!!
regards Kev
Good luck to them each full wing set is made up of 25 components:
1 wing cradle
4 wings
4 springs
8washers
4 wing rods
2 small wing brackets
2 brackets to hold wings shut
Could be an expensive replica, cheaper to buy a real one?
Dave.
It depends on condition, type and date.
In the last 12 months I've seen SD2 bodies sell for anything between 30 and 200 each.
Dave.
Have e-mailed you as requested.
If anyone else needs replica SD2 Gaines as originals are hard to find and very expensive, just PM me. If anyone can think of anything else to replicate that is hard to find but essential to a display let me know and i will see if its feasible.
