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57mm recoilless

I have a 57mm projectile on the way used on the 57mm recoilless rifle from ww2 through the Korean conflict. The projectile is coming without a fuze. so does anyone have the correct fuze or maybe a pic of what it looks like so I can manufacture a facsimile???? I think this projectile to be worthy of restoration? Dano


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Hi Dano,
I can post you a picture of the correct fuze when i get back after work. Dont have a spare one though sorry. What date is the projectile? you can often find the cases for these quite cheaply on your side of the pond.
Best Weasel.

The fuze is the M90A1 as per attached from TM 9-1900.



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57mm recoilless fuze

Thanks TonyE, Appreciate it very much, and if I can't find one it should be a "piece of cake" to fabricate one...Dano
Hi Dano,
A few pics of the fuze for you.

Best Weasel.


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57mm recoilless rifle

Thanks Weasel, great pictures. Looks like to me that fuze would be easy to replicate in the workshop. I did find an interesting wiki write-up on the 57mm recoilless rifle. It is an interesting piece of militaria. Would like to find the casing for one as they look like swiss cheese. The holes were to take the "punch" out of the recoil by venting off the spent gases through the holes. I havn't got the projectile yet, but advertisement stated most were dated in the 50's. The gun didn't gain a whole lot of favor because the low punch of the shell, and the flash produced when venting the spent gases would give the position away, and also irritate the shooter.. Price 10.00 U.S.....Dano
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57mm recoilless round

I think the M90 (A1) fuze is used for the 57mm HEAT projectile.
The fuze for the 57mm HE-projo (may be the M306 projectile ?!) should be the M503 (A1) PD fuze.
Mrfuze, USA
57mm no coil

Thank you mrfuze, very helpful information. I love this place. Ask and ye shall receive..Dano
57mm Recoilless...

Hello Dano,

Original fuzes for the 57mm recoilless rounds are REALLY tough to find. A surplus dealer in Washington state sells the inert 57mm projectiles and dummy fuzes. Go to: www.bigskysurplus.com

Best regards,


Be carefull buying dummy fuzes from The surplus dealer mentioned. He had them made on a lathe, but they aren't the right shape. They do fill the hole, but they don't look right to anyone who has seen a real one.
pseudo fuze m57

Hi Hazord, Reading your last post, I would guess that that outfit makes their own fuzes. I figured for 30.00 it would be original. Reading between lines seems to allude to the fact they may be sub-par. Looking at that sites prices on projectiles they appear to be "the home of high prices". I only paid 10.00 for projectile, so i'd much rather get a cheaper or at least better fuze. Hazord my friend, I thank you as you have helped me so much in the past and that don't go un-appreciated. May buy that 30.00 home made fuze if I run out of other options. this 57mm is first one I purchased and I think I will attempt resto of this one, because when read mini stories on proj. and gun seems to have a colorful history. Thanks again..Dan
P.S. I have camera "tuned" to best it can be, so many more thanks to you and also slickrick. Still will need new camera, but mine is livable at least till I can find suitable reasonably priced replacment...Best of everything...Dano
P.S. I read that the 57mm recoilless rifle was in i'll favor with those firing them dut to 1) with 75% of gases spent through vent holes in casing, shell lacked punch 2) the flash from the spent gases from shell casing would quickly give away shooters position 3) the resulting flash would burn eyes of irritated shooter.................D
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I'm glad you checked out the surplus guy. Yes, he is a crook. There were huge numbers of 57mm recoilless HE projos that hit the market over the past decade. This guy travels around selling ammo that he has hodge-podged together (incorrect projos with cases, dummy fuzes made from solid aluminum, etc.) He even made up counterfeit "collector" cartridges by taking normal ball rounds, and dipping them in paint to make different nose colors. Trust him as far as you can throw him.
fake repro fantasy junk

Yep Hazord, I truly appreciate the tip. I used to go to a militaria shop, that sold lots of "original" WWII German visor caps and other fabric goodies. Well I was there one day and he ran down the street ro get a cup of coffee. I slid into his backroom (a covert operation) and found visor hats, and various fabric pieces soaking in dirty water as he was obviously aging the material. Not that's a crook, and the bad news, there's a whole world full of them. also found his complete painting kit. Every color imaginable for painting original insignia on helmets etc...I don't visit him anymore because obviously he was a CROOK. I refuse to do any business with him ny more. And don't get me started on the camo German helmet WWI + WWII. Buyer beware. Once you've been around the block once or twice the fakes are generally easy tu spot...Dano
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Picking up on a 2 year old thread here, thanks to a successful "search".

I was looking for the original color of the fuze, having just acquired a handful of resin "replicas" in the form of : FUZE, DUMMY T126. A bit on the rough side. Will need some filler for the air holes and a little cleaning up on the base, but otherwise they screw in and look better than with no fuze at all. I assume these were cast from an original. My initial color consideration is silver/aluminum. Were the real ones ever painted or were they always bare metal?


Projectile, U.S. 57MM M306A1 (Small).jpg
So, here's my "clean-up" effort on those previously mentioned resin replica T126 DUMMY fuzes. Having a number of resin replica 'nades and 40MMs and others, I'm pretty familiar with the quality of castings, and these rank at the bottom. I am semi-literate on the required process(es) involved. It is apparent there is something of a learning curve involved in making these sorts of castings. My hat is off to those with the skills necessary to craft these things.

I ended up using car bondo vs model airplane putty. It's what is available and is basically the same thing. Paddled on with a plastic spreader and allowed to dry. Wet sanding with 400 grit shows the flaws in detail.

I'll throw on a coat of paint tomorrow, repeat the filler trick on the needed spots and then a final painting. Will add pics as the process evolves.

Fuze, U.S., T126 57MM resin 001 (Small).jpg Fuze, U.S., T126 57MM resin 003 (Small).jpg Fuze, U.S., T126 57MM resin 005 (Small).jpg Fuze, U.S., T126 57MM resin 006 (Small).jpg Fuze, U.S., T126 57MM resin 007 (Small).jpg