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"Inert" fuzes - just how safe are they?

Derek

Derek

Well-Known Member
There have been numerous "inert" WW1 fuzes listed on e#b*y, usually listed as relics, trench art, paperweight, etc. I have recently been offered a couple of British 100 and 101 types, in relic condition, dug up and with the usual addition of mud and dirt inside. My question is just how safe are these "inert" fuzes? Many an "inert" item has been found to have an explosive component in it so how can we be sure? If it is not possible to dismantle the fuze, as I have with a couple of type 80's in my modest collection there is no way of being 100% certain, right?
On another point, has anyone ever used a high pressure hose to clean a fuze, i.e. to remove the caked-in dirt?

Thanks...............
Derek:xd:
 
I have now started to wonder about the relic I picked up fieldwalking in Belgium twenty years ago!
I presumed it had been blasted away from the main shell on detonation. The marks on the underside and the stripped threads sort of convinced me then, but am I right to presume? Does this type come apart, and if so, how do I go about dismantling it?
 

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To be honest with you I wouldn't even think of dismantling it if you do not know it to be 100% inert,really not worth the risk


Tony
 
Like everyone else has said its just not worth the risk trying to strip it,
obviously many have functioned and are safe but theres always that small percentage that may have some compositions waiting to bite you even after all these years ,
its extremely difficult to get inside many of these battlefield relic fuzes they get deformed on functioning and you may as well save a few pounds and wait for a good condition already strippable example or one of the many pre cut battlefield relics that seem to be for sale at the moment..
 
It is definitely not worth the risk to strip it as this could potentially expose you to more risk. The next question unfortunately is, if the inert status of an item has not be confirmed should it be retained in a collection? Is there a potential for a stimulis to be applied to the item that could cause it to function, i.e. heat from a fire place, shock from being dropped.

Even factory inert munitions are not always inert. I know of two cases were factory cartridges were found to contain energetic materials even though they were suppose to be completely inert. One was a Display Cartridge 105mm Tk SH/Prac that represented a version of SH/Prac that contained a live fuze and HE spotting charge. The display version was found contain the HE spotting charge and only the fuze had been removed during manufacture.

The second was 35mm ammunition where the display ammunition was made from live cartridges. The projectiles were inert and the cartridge cases were emptied by removing the screw fit primer and pouring out the propellant. When these items were slated for demil and were broken down for disposal several grains of propellant were found to be stuck in the cartridge case. The potential of anything ever happening was extremely small, but these factory certified inert items were not inert.

I also know of several cases were foreign munitions, mostly from the former Yugoslavia were certified by qualified experts (Ammo Techs) who unfortunately lacked the proper understanding or technical information for the items they were inspecting. Some of these items were later determined to contain energetic material and unfortunately some were discovered only when a series of accidents occurred within a training establishment.

It is a shame to lose any piece of a collection, but if there is any doubt it would be best to refer the matter to the experts.

My 2 cents for the day.
 
My tuppennyworth is to research the types of fuze you are likely to find, by diagrams and by how they were designed to function. Then when you find them you know what a complete, unexpended, version will look like. Be wary even of fuzes found on their own, not fitted to a shell - a French B & B I stayed at a couple of years ago had a number of recovered items in their front yard, including three expended German fuzes. With them was a fourth of the same type but it was complete. I brought this to their attention, told them it was probably live and advised them to contact the authorities. If in any doubt, leave them alone and inform the police. My favourite beach has versions of the 117 and 119 HE fuzes and the majority of what I find is obviously expended. As to whether they are inert, the biggest clue is whether they are still attached to a shell, although I found a fuze fitted to a shell where the steel safety cap had not been removed by the gunners before the shell was fired. In that state the fuze is probably in its most dangerous condition, fully armed and requiring a knock on the nose to make it function. Don't forget that other fuzes are designed to work on the graze principle, meaning that a large vibration to the shell could make them function. I have found other fuzes separate from shell that led me to think the shell had been found and destroyed by demolition years after they were fired, as there was little distortion to the fuze body but the magazine was empty and the external threads were stripped. I also find 25 Pr Smoke BE shell fitted with the 221 time combustion fuze (aka a powder train time fuze). The clue there is whether the base plate is still attached to the shell. You can also check whether a 221 Fuze is expended by looking at the base of the fuze to see whether the star shaped crimp has been opened up by exiting gas. Also each time ring was fitted with a blow-out plug so that slag and excess pressure could leave the fuze without speeding up the burning time. The WW1 fuze shown in this post is typical of other expended British WW1 HE fuzes I have found and I would be happy to have that as an ornament. The 100 and 101 fuzes I have seen were not much distorted by detonation but the clues with those are the stripped external threads and the rending of the metal around the area of the magazine.
 
Hey,

I'll second SMLE and Slick.

To Ammocat's reply I'd like to add: there are many possible causes that might (re)activate a fuze / item of ordnance that misfunctioned, even after years of burial or immersion, some of these causes are quite common,....... but not always commonly known !
One of these e.g. is static electricity (this may set off certain detonation compounds as contained in exploderpellets and certain high explosives).

The great danger is off course that a fuze/piece of ordnance (especially duds / malfuctions/ misfires etc. , but not necessarilly these alone ! ) , may all off a sudden do what it was designed to do, in very mundane circumstances from very mundane causes.

As we can never fully know what it will be that sets of a (then former) dud (normal piece, for that matter), it becomes clear that it's very unsafe to handle any piece of which it is not known wether or not it still contains energetic materials.

So when in doubt about a piece, leave it well alone and alert the experts.

Regards,

Menno.
 
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I think this thread could easily lead into breaking some of the site rules?
I think the answer to this thread is to point out the main `give aways` of whether a fuze has fired off/detonated.
If it doesn`t meet these criteria regard as live and have dealt with accordingly - (leave it where it is, mark the spot/area & call the authorities. If it`s already at home put it somewhers safe/er - garden shed - and call your local nick).
things to look for on a fired fuze - deformed/stripped threads, `bell` like overall profile or belling of the base. on many of the older ones there is a thin copper/brass or ally cover in the firing hole if this is `burnt` away then good.
Fuzes - generally - have no actual `explosive` effect ie shrapnel - usually a fairly short duration but intense jet of flame from the fire holel Think of them as primers at the the nasty end!
With regards to your quite nice example corblimey I would say it is safe ( a pic of the `fire hole` would be good) assuming you are not going to put it in the fire or hit it with a hammer it can probably be left on display!
Please bear in mind there are many types of fuzes so the above comments is only a rough guidline/opinion.
If in doubt - play it safe - report it.
 
Many thanks for all of your replies,

hicky1300 said:
With regards to your quite nice example corblimey I would say it is safe ( a pic of the `fire hole` would be good)
Click to expand...

Is the second image in line not the fire hole?

It does have stripped threads and a slight bell shape to the base.
 
The real question is if the gaine is present. That is the part that explodes, setting off the booster and then the main charge depending on the configuration of the explosive chain.

If the gaine is not attached then there is a very good chance that it is safe to handle depending on fuze.

But as mentioned before study and diagrams etc of internal components is a sure and safe way to go.

Treat everything with respect due to circumstances and if not sure play safe.

Cheers,
BOUGAINVILE
 
Good point Bougainville. I had omitted to mention Gaines in my response earlier. These have obviously more harm potential.
I think that we are all in agreement - if in doubt leave it alone & inform proper authorities.
Also if you do see someone selling one - or anything, for that matter - (physically or by ad pics) that you think to be live then obviously explain your concerns/fears to them.
 
A quantity of mortar and shell fuzes were dealt with by the Army a week or so ago in Cheshire, all live all WWII and all in the ground. It shows how they remain active after years as they are designed to work in all conditions.
My first fuze was as a school boy a No.101 from Sanctuary Wood Belgium.

Merry Xmas all.
 
Just to pipe in on the subject
In my 40 some years of collecting
I have only come across one live fuze
It was a Scoville MK XI powder train fuze
It's a matter of
knowing what your collecting
and being safe in doing so
 
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