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Mystery fuze for ID please.
- Thread starter AndyD
- Start date
unknown fuze
Hi Andy, I have 2 of the same fuzes in my collection, one is made for the Netherlands with the nomenclature of " MTSB NR 40 " , the other is made for the UK with the nomenclature " L81 A1 ".
Both were made by Dixi in Switzerland and have been exported to several countries in the 50's/60's. The fuzes may have various booster /adapter assemblies attached to it.
Mrfuze, USA
Hi Andy, I have 2 of the same fuzes in my collection, one is made for the Netherlands with the nomenclature of " MTSB NR 40 " , the other is made for the UK with the nomenclature " L81 A1 ".
Both were made by Dixi in Switzerland and have been exported to several countries in the 50's/60's. The fuzes may have various booster /adapter assemblies attached to it.
Mrfuze, USA
Dixi rings a bell with me. My fuze notes are squirrelled away somewhere right now. I'm sure we in UK used Dixi fuzes, perhaps for 105 mm shell (illuminating?). Will see what I can find out and post in the next few days.
More to follow when I get time to scan & post some diagrams but for now: The UK generic term for this fuze is Fuze Nose Mechanical Time L81. It was still in use with UK forces in 1979, in 105 mm Howitzer illuminating shell (L55A1) and 105 mm Field illuminating shell (L43A1).
The body is made of nickel plated brass and is screw threaded for attachment of the magazine. A Vernier scale is engraved on the conical surface of the body, with graduations from 0 - 10 to permit greater accuracy of time setting. The fuze has an aluminium nose, around the base are graduations from 0 - 60, representing seconds. The main part of the fuze is the mechanical time element. This consists of the escapement housing, driving device, timing gear, escapement mechanism and detonator with striker. A magazine containing gunpowder is attached at the base of the fuze body. One of the fuze safety arrangements is that the fuze is set on the maximum time setting (60) before issue and without sustained centrifugal force, the time element is immobile.
From what I can see from the diagrams I wouldn't recommend disassembling yours, unless you are skilled at repairing watches. More a work of art than a fuze. Will post more when I get time. XT
The body is made of nickel plated brass and is screw threaded for attachment of the magazine. A Vernier scale is engraved on the conical surface of the body, with graduations from 0 - 10 to permit greater accuracy of time setting. The fuze has an aluminium nose, around the base are graduations from 0 - 60, representing seconds. The main part of the fuze is the mechanical time element. This consists of the escapement housing, driving device, timing gear, escapement mechanism and detonator with striker. A magazine containing gunpowder is attached at the base of the fuze body. One of the fuze safety arrangements is that the fuze is set on the maximum time setting (60) before issue and without sustained centrifugal force, the time element is immobile.
From what I can see from the diagrams I wouldn't recommend disassembling yours, unless you are skilled at repairing watches. More a work of art than a fuze. Will post more when I get time. XT
Sorry Andy, I have no idea where one could be found.
Chris 42 RQ
Well-Known Member
Coarse thread!
The "adaptor" you seek Andy D will be like "Rocking horse poo" as it is such a coarse thread (something like 6mm Pitch) that it will fit no other shell that I know of and generally when I have seen them they remain jammed in the top of the expended star shell and cannot be removed as you only have two small cutouts in the brass body that strip even with the correct tool for removal.
You have the top part of the Fuze and should you want to fit it to the shell you may want to consider having a fake adaptor made from a piece of Alloy ?
The "adaptor" you seek Andy D will be like "Rocking horse poo" as it is such a coarse thread (something like 6mm Pitch) that it will fit no other shell that I know of and generally when I have seen them they remain jammed in the top of the expended star shell and cannot be removed as you only have two small cutouts in the brass body that strip even with the correct tool for removal.
You have the top part of the Fuze and should you want to fit it to the shell you may want to consider having a fake adaptor made from a piece of Alloy ?