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U.S. Scoville fuze model of 1907

Pictured is thr U.S. model of 1907 Scoville fuze that I picked up about a month ago from a local militaria shop. From what i've been able to scrape together is that this fuze was used from WW1 through the Korean War. It has the base adaptor for fitting it to a 75mm shell. I'm trying to get the base adaptor off but it is on there really tight. Any suggestions on how I might remove the adaptor without cacking up the fuze? Dano


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Your fuze does have wrench slots in it. If you have a big vise, use soft jaws like a couple of pieces of wood between the steel jaws and the largest diameter of the adapter. The adapter will deform the wood where it cuts into it. You will need something to simulate a fuze wrench for this. Usually the quickest way is method 1 below.

Breaking things apart: Method 1. If it is OK to get oil on them, go to Home Depot and get a can of "Liquid Wrench", or they have a similar derusting penetrating oil at auto parts stores. Turn the relic upside down, and spray the oil on the joint between the fuze and the adapter. Usually the can will have a small tube you can put in the nozzel to concentrate the spray. Let it set a few days, respraying every day or so, as the oil evaporates. In the mean time, procure or fabricate a hammer with a head softer than steel. Brass is good. A steel hammer is also handy, but you will need to be gentle with it.

Breaking loose: Get a nice thick glove for your weak hand. Hold the oil soaked assembly with the point towards the palm of your weak hand. Using the hammer, hit the steel adapter on the bottom side, going around the circle. What you are doing is putting some shock into the assembly to loosen the two. Go around the circle of the adapter, continuing to hit it. It could break loose with a couple of hits or not at all. If it rings when you hit it, the two are still bonded together. If the sound changes when you hit it from the first sound it was making, it is starting to break loose. You can always shoot more oil in it to help it unscrew. If the projo had a strong exploson, the back of the fuze might be swaged (mushroomed) out too large, and it will never unscrew.

If method 1 doesn't work with a brass hammer, you can use a steel hammer, but don't hit hard enough to deform the steel adapter.

Method 2: Hot and cold, expansion. The fastest way is to use an acetylene torch to heat the steel adapter. set the fuze/adapter on a short piece of pipe or something that won't catch fire. Good to do this out doors. From the underneath side, go around the circle of the adapter with the torch. For the first try, you don't need to get the steel red. Go around a few times. The oil in the joint will smoke and maybe burn. Thats OK. Have a pair of pliers and bucket of water ready. When its hot, hold it so the fuze is pointed down, and lower it in the water, so only the brass fuze is in the water, so it shrinks first away from the adapter. try to keep the steel out of the water, so it stays hot . it will sizzle and steam. After a couple of minutes, when the fuze is cool enough to hold in your gloved hand, shoot some oil in the joint and try method 1 again.

If this doesn't work, you can try heating again, but get it hotter. A propane torch will work also. You might need to heat and cool 3 or 4 times to get it to work.

If you have something that you don't want to burn the paint on, throw it in the freezer for a few hours till its good and frozen, then dip the part you want to expand in boiling water. You would need to hold the fuze by the nose end. More oil and whacking. Listen for a change in sound.

Soaking things in diesel oil will help too, as that stuff can find the tiniest crack to seep through.

Give that a try. Good luck.

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